Thomas' Blog: The South African Wine Adventure – Day 4

February 13th, 2012

Another beautiful day here at the Cape and I am on my way to Hermanus. It’s one of the most stunning drives imaginable along the coastline of the Western Cape; endless sweeping roads without any traffic (James, where is your Porsche?). We are on our way to visit and taste at Newton Johnson, a second-generation family owned winery specializing in Pinot Noir. Winemaker Gordon Newton Johnson has managed to do what so many others try, but fail: producing Pinot Noir in the style of a great Burgundy outside of France. Focusing on reflecting the different soils in their wines, they have achieved remarkable quality in their wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 2011: With the addition of 8% Semillon, this is full flavored and bold. Citrus, green apples and good textures on the palate. 88 points.

Sauvignon Blanc Resonance 2010: Organic grape from the estate’s vineyards. Addition of 16% oaked Semillon. Tropical fruits, passion fruit and mango. Very balanced and silky. 90 points.

Chardonnay Family Vineyards 2010: Again, all the grapes come from the estate’s own vineyards. Fermented in 25% new French oak. Minerals, hazelnuts and peaches. Good and solid palate. 89+ points. 

Chardonnay 2010: More focused and precise than the above. Asian spices, lovely citrus notes. Good mid palate. This needs more time. 90 points.

Pinot Noir Family Vineyards 2010: This is a blend of three different estate vineyards with different soil and character. Lovely bright brick red color, you can read your newspaper through it. Wonderful aromas of red berries, violets and cherry notes. Great ripeness and balance. Later, Asian spices and cinnamon. Super fine tannins. This is as good as any young Burgundy. Will improve with a few years of aging. Great stuff. 93+ points.

Pinot Noir Domaine 2009: The name was changed to Family Vineyards in 2010. Very much like 2010 but more complex and profound; this is due to the fact that 2009 was a superior vintage to 2010. Also, the wine has a slightly darker color and seems riper. Production: 700 cases. 94 points. 

Pinot Noir Mova 2010, Block 6 and Block 3, 4, 5: For the 2010 vintage, Gordon decided to bottle a small amount of all three single vineyards from the estate. They are all wonderful components of the final blend, but I am not convinced that this was the right thing to do, as the final blend is much better than any of the individual bottlings. I would have waited a bit longer till the vineyards have matured more. They all merit 91 points.

Pinot Noir Elgin 2010: A more gutsier and bolder expression of Pinot Noir than the estate Pinot. More dark berries, violets and a more fruity palate. More of a crowd pleaser. Grapes come from neighboring parcels as well as from estate vineyards. 90+ points.

Full Stop Rock 2008: 94% Syrah with some Grenache and Mourvedre added.  Very meaty and heavy with pronounced tannins. Lots of prunes and dark chocolate. Lacks finesse and balance. This does not do justice to what Gordon can produce with his Pinot Noir. 88 points.

On our way back we stopped by a tiny farm called Amares in Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, established only in 2005 by outspoken and passionate winemaker Neville Koudstaal. This five-hectare property is surrounded by the famous Rustenberg Estate. Only Cabernet Sauvignon is planted; the Syrah is brought in.

Syrah 2006: From eight-year-old vines. Open stainless steel fermentation, aged for 18 month in 30% new oak. Spicy, bell pepper, roasted Asian spices. Mulberries, good length and flavors. 88 points.

Syrah 2007: From 50% six-year-old and 50% 15-year-old vines. More grown up than the 2006 with better definition, lengths and balance. Nice. 90 points.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006: Only five barrels of the estate’s maiden vintage were produced. The vines are 14 years old. Aged for 18 month in barrels. Lovely bitter chocolate, roses and mint. Pronounced but not aggressive tannins. This needs time. 89 points.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2007: Black cherries, cinnamon, dark chocolate and black berries. Much rounder with softer but solid tannins. Good acidity and well balanced. I wan to try this again in three to four years. 90+ points.

Thomas Bohrer has been living in Hong Kong for over 20 years and is the owner of various wine and food companies in Asia.