Bordeaux 2011: Comparing Three Vintages of Haut Brion, La Mission

I did an impressive tasting during my March tasting tour in Bordeaux at the famous first growth of Chateau Haut-Brion with owner Robert de Luxembourg and winemaker Jean-Philippe Delmas. It included the three most current vintages of Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion reds as well as de Luxembourg’s new estate in St. Emilion – Quintus (formerly Tertre Daugay).

I like the comments of these two men about the quality of 2011 and how it stands against two extraordinary vintages such as 2009 and 2010. Most wine estates during my more than two weeks in Bordeaux in March didn’t have the courage to pour other vintages next to the 2011. It’s a shame because for an experienced taster it really gave a reference point to the 2011.

I wonder if we would all be more enthusiastic about the 2011s if they had not followed the 2010 and 2009. The 2011 just can’t compare.

Also note that I was more enthusiastic about the 2010 from Haut-Brion and La Mission this time around. The wines showed even more strength and depth than when I tasted them in Spring 2011. This said, I don’t think they are perfect wines like the 2009 though.

Here are my tasting notes. The second wines were also served.

2011 Quintus St.-Emilion: Aromas of blueberries and lilacs follow through to full body, with fine tannins and a racy texture. Lovely length too. Very fine indeed. The first vintage that the Haut-Brion team made the wine here, which was formerly the estate of Tertre Daugay. Wonderfully crafted. 50.5% Cabernet Franc and 49.5% Merlot. 90-91 points

2011 La Chapelle de La Mission-Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: A firm and fruity second wine of La Mission with plums and minerals and chocolate. Full and chewy yet polished and fine. Fresh finish. A little lean and rigid. 68.7% Merlot, 11.6% Cabernet Franc, and 29% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90-91 points

2011 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Lovely second wine of Haut Brion with tobacco, chocolate and dark fruits. Earth too. Full body with fine tannins and pretty finish. Very balanced. Nicely done. 91-92 points

 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Complex aromas of brown sugar, sweet tobacco and dark fruits. Turns to hints of prunes and cocoa. Full-bodied, with ultra fine tannins and a wonderful length. Refined and silky. Beautiful balance. Such wonderful length. Turns chewy yet very polished. 94-95 points

2011 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: What a beautiful nose of Cabernet Sauvignon with currants, berries and hints of dark chocolate. Full and super silky with fine tannins and a very firm and long finish. Very long. 94-95 points

2010 La Chapelle de La Mission-Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Lovely balance of plums, berries, with hints of vanilla bean. Lemon rind too. Full and super silky with a lovely sweet fruit underneath. Balanced and refined. 93-94 points

2010 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Coffee and currants with hints of sweet tobacco and vanilla bean. Subtle yet intense. Full body, with sexy tannins and a sweet fruit coating around it. Very fine and linear. Direct. Gorgeous. Better than I remember. 94-95 points

2010 La Mission Haut-Brion: Blueberry and blackberry with hints of spices and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, with super silky tannins with cocoa, spice and berry character. Lots of sweet fruit with coffee undertones. Refined and complex. Better than I remember. 97-98 points

2010 Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Licorice and sweet tobacco with beautiful fruit and a blackberry and blue berry undertone. Complex and breathtaking.  Amazing depth and intensity yet fine. This is the biggest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon ever. Full and velvety. Intense finish. Super and muscular. Yet polished. Better than ever. 99-100 points

2009 La Chappelle de La Mission-Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Sweet berry and sweet tobacco with chocolate and orange peel on the nose. Full and velvety tannins and long finish. Gorgeous. Creamy texture. Try in 2016. 94 points

2009 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: What a nose. You see the chocolate, orange peel, sweet tobacco. Goes to milk chocolate and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and round tannin structure. Creamy texture. Like the great 1995. Sweet and beautiful. Try in 2016. 95 points 

2009 La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: This is already closing with blueberry, mineral, fresh herbs, and licorice. Full-bodied, with ultra fine tannins yet muscular and racy. This is already very firm and tight. Yet muscular like a world-class ballerina. Muscular. Try after 2018. 98 points

2009 Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: Every time I taste this I love it. What a nose with black truffles and raspberries with flowers. Insanely rich yet subtle. Full-bodied, with ultra fine tannins and a length that goes on forever.  Super structured and intense. This is very closed now. Don't touch for 10 years. Made to age. This could well be better than the perfect 1989. 100 points