Martinborough Pinot Noir
Martinborough is a small town located in South Wairarapa, south of the North Island just opposite of Marlborough. This small town is practically surrounded by vineyards and it is considered one of the Pinot Noir capitals of New Zealand. Nick Stock recently released a tasting report on Martinborough's pinot noir, don't forget to check it out.
Our first stop was Ata Rangi, one of the first estates to plant vines in Martinborough. James first met with Clive Paton, founder of Ata Rangi. James asked Clive what special qualities Martinborough gives to Pinot Noir, and he replied that it gives the wine brilliance and intensity of flavor. Clive decided to plant vines in Martinborough after a thorough study where he found the figures of the analysis similar to those found in Burgundy.
After a walk around the vineyard, Clive and James met with chief winemaker Helen Masters to taste a range of Ata Rangi's wines. James was impressed by the Sauvignon Blanc, especially by its minerality and beautiful dense fruit, reminding him of a white Bordeaux. But going back to the Pinot Noirs, James asked Helen what she found to be special about Ata Rangi's Pinots. Helen explained that the depth of the roots of their 32-year-old vines helped to give elegance and finesse to the wine. In her opinion, the wines of Martinborough are known for developing into long, fine and tight wines.
Our second stop was Escarpment, where we were received by Hugh Kinch. Hugh first took us to visit one of the tiny vineyards that surround the city of Martinborough. He explained that in the late 1970s and early 1980s, everyone in the town who had one or two hectares planted Pinot Noir vines. Hugh then explained that there are tremendous soil variations in the Martinborough region. As one gets closer to the river you find more gravel, but as you move away silt is more prominent.
After Escarpment, Hugh was kind enough to drive us to the Martinborough Vineyards estate just a few blocks away from Escarpment's Kiwa vineyard. Once there, we met with Paul Mason, chief winemaker at Martinborough Vineyards. James told Paul that the 2008 Martinborough Vineyards Marie Zelie reminded him of a Romanee Saint-Vivant. James found Martinborough Vineyards wines to be initially severe, and then show intense fruit. Paul stated that he wants his wines to be drunk young, but he also wants them to stand the passage of time.
Our fourth and final stop was Dry River. Once there, we were met in their Pinot Noir vineyard by chief winemaker Wilco Lam. James was surprised by the intensity of the light. New Zealand, because of its geographical position and the hole in the ozone layer, has an excess of UV light. Wilco explained that at Dry River, they rely on UV light for the ripening of the grapes, hence the reflective patches at the base of the vines. For James, New Zealand Pinot Noirs are like European Pinots but with bright acidity and beautiful fruit.
After an exhausting but fascinating day, we drove to Wellington to catch a flight to our next destination: Marlborough. Watch the video to see the above unfold. This video is much longer than what we normally post on JamesSuckling.com, and is more like a mini-documentary.
This was originally posted in January 2013.
-JGAL
