It’s very cool to taste with Testamatta owner Bibi Graetz. The man is so straight and honest; he just tells you what he thinks. His pure Sangiovese is one of my 12 Best Collectible Wines of Tuscany, and I think that the 2006 is his best ever. But Bibi thinks differently. I really appreciate iconoclastic winemakers like him.
Bibi looks for richness, yet finesse, and great length and depth. His wines age really well, even though the first vintage of Testamatta was 2000. Check out what he has to say during my tasting with him at his cellar in the hills above Florence near the town of Fiesole.
Here are my notes. The 2009 is a barrel sample so I used a two-point range.
2007 Bibi Graetz Toscana Testamatta: This is very concentrated with a beautiful balance and freshness. Lots of blackberry, mushroom and wet earth character. Full and dense with firm tannins, yet energetic and lively. Intense. Better in 2014. 96 points.
2009 Bibi Graetz Toscana Testamatta: Soft and almost oily in texture with cedar, chocolate orange and spices. Very Burgundian. From a top year. But intense and Tuscan. Long and gorgeous. Voluptuous. Decadent and sexy. 95-96 points.