Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 2005, 2004, 2001, 1999

Vincenzo Abbruzzese, the owner of Valdicava, is one of the best grape growers in Italy, but he is making his name at his 67-acre vineyard estate about 20 minutes north of Montalcino. His Brunello di Montalcinos are some of the most soulful and enticing wines from the region and consistently offer rich and opulent character in a balanced and refined way. About 37 acres of his vineyards go into the standard Valdicava label, which is made with a blend of Sangiovese from about a half dozen single vineyards. He also makes another reserve Brunello from one special vineyard called Madonna del Piano. His vines look like a well-kept yet wild garden, since Vincenzo is deeply concerned with the balance and wellness of his vineyard in relation to his special local ecosystem. His wines are aged about two years in large oak casks and another two or so in bottle. I visited the estate and tasted a range of Brunellos in September last year just before the harvest. I have subsequently tasted the 2006 in a blind tasting and the final score should be published next week.

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