It’s been 38 years since I first traveled to Bolgheri to report on a new winery, Ornellaia, that is now one of the leading names in this coastal region of Tuscany, and I have had a soft spot ever since for the wines from the area, especially the reds.
Comparisons of the reds of Bolgheri to Bordeaux and Napa Valley have been made because of the region’s reliance on similar grape varietals, mostly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. But I don’t think that such comparisons are fair considering the unique climate and position of Bolgheri, with vineyards so close to the Mediterranean Sea and its pristine hillsides of maritime trees and brush. This unique ecosystem definitely gives the reds a cool and lightly herbaceous character that comes through in so many wines, including hints of fresh sage, rosemary and mint.
Moreover, Bolgheri generally doesn’t make reds with the restrained character of Bordeaux in most vintages or the more overt personality of Napa reds, particularly cabernet sauvignon.