As a winemaker, I have always loved crafting chardonnay because it’s a grape that allows itself to be shaped into an endless variety of styles. In fact, the most coveted and expensive white wines in the world are chardonnays fermented and aged in French oak, as the aromas and textures of oak barrels are complementary to the fruit characters in exquisite and familiar ways. But is oak necessary to express the full character depth of this variety, or are tank-fermented and aged chards an equally legitimate expression of the world’s most popular white grape?
The fruit character of chardonnay can be framed and enhanced by the proper use of oak, much like a freshly baked crust complements the tart and sweet apples in a pie. Lean and acidic chards that show citrus, green apple and minerality only need small amounts of subtle oak to complement and frame the wine. In contrast, rich, ripe tropical and viscous chards can support a good deal of oak aroma and flavor, as well as buttery notes from malolactic fermentation, while still holding mass appeal. The origin, seasoning and toasting of oak, as well as the resulting sensory character, is a fascinating topic itself, and the tradition of great chard and great barrels is a compelling story in the history of wine.
From a winemaking perspective, barrel and butter aromas can be used to bring complexity, power and ageability to a wine, but also consistency to a product that naturally varies from vintage to vintage. Along with barrel aging and malolactic fermentation, they can also help cover subtle flaws that may occur through viticulture and vinification. However, the notes of toast, nuts and spice that come from the barrel, alongside savory and familiar butter, can easily cover nuanced aromas that are crucial to revealing unique clonal-vintage interactions while also distracting from the expression of terroir. The correct amount of oak needed to frame a wine properly is a recurring topic among industry friends, and let me tell you – opinions differ!
