Buy Now: Washington State Reds

9 TASTING NOTES
Tuesday, Aug 27, 2024

The K Vintners winery in Jet City, Seattle.

To find a powerful, cellar-worthy and reasonably priced wine from the U.S., most people would probably turn to California, but for even better value at the premium level a better choice might be Washington State. As we discussed in our latest Washington Annual Report, producers here are putting an ever-increasing focus on premium wines that compete with top Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons – but at a fraction of the price.

In the dry continental-climate valleys east of the Cascade Mountains, both Bordeaux and Rhone varieties ripen easily to produce full-bodied, powerful red wines with ripe and smooth tannins. Even better, they retain freshness and acidity because of chilly nights and cool autumns.

Take L’Ecole No 41 Walla Walla Valley Ferguson Vineyard 2021, for instance. 2021 was an extremely hot season in the state, and yet this cabernet sauvignon-led blend has a profusion of fresh, vivid fruit, beautifully integrated with subtle oak spices. It’s approachable but will be better with a few years of cellaring.

Another wine to lay down for a couple more years is the Figgins Walla Walla Valley Figlia 2020, made from merlot and petit verdot. It’s chewy, firm and full-bodied with a chiseled tannin structure, produced from another warm vintage. It’s worth noting that 2020 saw wildfire smoke affecting Oregon and California, posing challenges to winemakers, but Washington winemakers were less impacted.

More approachable already is the Long Shadows Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Feather 2020, a meaty, velvety red showing notes of ripe blackcurrants and cherry chocolate. Another ripe and silky cabernet sauvignon, but from a slightly cooler vintage, is the Betz Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Père de Famille 2019. There is plenty of nuance and delicacy here to the rich dark fruit and sweet-tobacco character.

From the well-regarded Red Mountain AVA, check out the Hedges Red Mountain La Haute Cuvée 2018 – a full-bodied, toasty and concentrated red from biodynamically grown grapes, with just a touch (less than one percent) of petit verdot blended in with cabernet sauvignon.

Also from 2018 is the Leonetti Cellar Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2018,  which is balanced, harmonious and layered with blackberry, violet and chocolate aromas.

Gary Figgins, founder of both Figgins and Leonetti Cellar, holds a bottle of the Figgins Walla Walla Valley Figlia 2020 (left).

Alongside these cabernet sauvignon- and merlot-based reds are stunning wines made from Rhone varietals like syrah, which particularly shines in the eastern Walla Walla Valley. One is the Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley In The Rocks 2020, a co-fermented blend of syrah and six percent viognier made in Cote-Rotie style. It’s a juicy and fleshy red that has aromas ranging from grilled plum, peach and clove to roasted thyme.

A contrastingly mineral, stemmy and earthy syrah is the K Vintners Syrah Yakima Valley Motor City Kitty 2021, which is intensely aromatic with tapenade, green-peppercorn and tea-leaf aromas followed by an electric and astoundingly fresh palate. They also made a gorgeous grenache from 2021, the K Vintners Grenache Walla Walla Valley The Boy 2021. It’s just as fragrant and fresh but shows more red fruit and cedar-spice, and is blanketed in lacy, soft tannins.

These nine wines are readily available in the United States at under $100 (and as low as about $40!) and are ready to drink now or to cellar. Enjoy.

– Claire Nesbitt, Associate Editor

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