Gaja Barbaresco 1978

I visited the Gajas this summer to taste their 2011 Barbarescos – which are outstanding, incidentally. It seems very unlikely, however, that last year will prove to be a good vintage. Even as I met with Angelo and Gaia in July, they told me they were still hoping “2014 might be remembered as a 1978”. It was a year that saw an Indian summer catapult what should have been a terrible vintage into cult status. I tasted Gaja’s 1978 Barbaresco in Hong Kong last November, and it showed tea leaf, prunes and hints of leather. Whilst it was dry and tannic, it was also fully and juicy, making for an intense and still highly enjoyable wine, albeit one constrained by the winemaking techniques of the day. Sadly, I doubt the same will be said of the 2014 vintage 40 years from now. 91 points