Vertical tastings that begin with recent releases then stretch back to wines that are decades old reach their spectacular peak when the last wine is a century old. They are one of the exceptional experiences of professional wine tasting and they’re most often staged for tannic reds, like top Bordeaux.
Receiving an invitation from Champagne house Moet & Chandon to attend a vertical tasting last month that would stretch back a full century was particularly exciting. I can’t remember even reading about a tasting of that kind with Champagne. Amazing!
One reason for this is that the wine industry of the Champagne region, located less than an hour’s express train ride due east of Paris, is focused upon non-vintage (NV) wines. These multi-vintage cuvées are generally intended for consumption within months of release. Vintage Champagnes are exceptions to that rule – the icing on the cake produced only in the best years.