On the Brink of a New Leap Forward: Alto Adige Annual Tasting Report

From the vineyards surrounding Lake Caldaro to the slopes above Sant’Appiano, vines are neatly pruned by early June, with unwanted shoots removed and grape clusters exposed to the mountain air. The aim is to maximize ripening in relation to soil and climate, but it’s also a reflection of Alto Adige’s identity: a region of vintners obsessed with precision, perhaps now having found its defining grape in pinot bianco.

This attention to viticultural care results in wines of exceptional quality – forthright and vividly expressive, reflecting not only the character of each vintage but also the distinctiveness of the the varieties grown in Alto Adige.

We tasted more than 200 wines from the region during our trip there this summer, visiting wineries and chatting with producers to gauge the last two or three vintages of Alto Adige, which is essentially a patchwork of subregions and small-scale viticulturists. In total, we tasted nearly 400 Alto Adige wines.

Many of these are tiny growers – sometimes too small to bottle their own wines – anchoring a long-established cooperative system. The numbers are striking: according to the Alto Adige Wine Consortium, 4,800 grape growers operate here, organized into 160 wineries, most of them co-ops.

These co-ops account for 70 to 74 percent of total annual wine production of about 40 million bottles; private estates represent about 25 percent, and independent vintners the rest.

For all three categories of vintners, the 2024 vintage was a challenge, at least for making red wines, as spring frosts, hailstorms and uneven ripening resulted in yield losses ranging from 15 percent to as much as 70 percent at some estates.

“2024 was a difficult year for reds but excellent for whites, with rain during harvest and little sun after Sept. 25,” said Martin Foradori of  the J. Hofstatter winery.

2022 in Alto Adige was the opposite of 2024 and a pleasant surprise. While much of Italy suffered under drought, Alto Adige’s pre-Alpine climate delivered afternoon rains and a beautiful harvest. Wines like the Cantina Terlan Alto Adige Terlaner I Grande Cuvée 2022 – just shy of the extraordinary 2021 – are proof.

But with temperatures hitting as high as 40 degrees Celsius in 2022, pinot noir grapes came under pressure, forcing harvest up to two weeks early, between Sept. 6 and 14, according to Philip Zublasing, the winemaker at Cantina St. Pauls.

The 2023 vintage, meanwhile, tested both growers and vines: a dry spring gave way to heavy rains and humid summer heat, with stability returning only in autumn. Warm days and cool nights favored late-ripening grapes.

But through the vicissitudes of weather, the region’s winemaking continues to evolve. Chardonnay and pinot noir remain reliable performers, but sauvignon blanc has recently reached new heights, shedding both Loire greenness and New Zealand flamboyance. The Colterenzio Sauvignon Alto Adige Gran Lafóa Riserva 2022 is a case in point – a floral, citrusy, mineral wine that is on par with top Sancerre wines.

Pinot noir, once defined by its oak treatment, is evolving too. Regions like Mazzon and Montagna are gaining attention for their layered, expressive wines. The Alois Lageder Pinot Noir Alto Adige Krafuss 2021 and J. Hofstätter Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano 2021 are both vibrant, deeply fruited, and impeccably balanced, confirming the quality of this vintage.

Chardonnay is also undergoing a quiet transformation. Though some bottlings still lean baroque – with classical names and 1990s styling – many others reflect a leaner, more mineral approach. Among the standouts: Alois Lageder's Chardonnay Alto Adige Löwengang 2015, Elena Walch's Chardonnay Alto Adige Vigna Castel Ringberg Riserva 2022 and Nals Margreid's Chardonnay Alto Adige Nama 2022.

Yet the grape that may best capture Alto Adige’s essence is pinot bianco, although the numbers don’t necessarily support this. The grape accounts for just 10 percent of the region’s total wine production, behind pinot grigio and gewürztraminer, but its planted area in Alto Adige has grown steadily over the past decade-plus to now rival that of pinot noir.

Zublasing of St. Pauls, who works alongside consultant Paolo Salvi, said pinot bianco now comprises 15 percent of their white wine production (which is 65 percent of their total). “We’re just one winery, but we have 200 growers and manage 185 hectares” of vineyards, he added.

The finest expressions of pinot bianco in the world today arguably come from Alto Adige. Thanks to elevations ranging from 200 to 1,000 meters, the grape achieves a nuance and verticality found nowhere else. Terlano, Abraham, Nals Magreid, Gojer, Walch, Juval and Gump Hof are among the names to watch.

The Terlaner I 2022 is perhaps the most emblematic bottle. Though technically a blend, it is pinot bianco-based. And although it didn’t quite reach the 100-point perfection of the 2021 vintage – this 2022 is more phenolic, more structured, with oak still visible – it remains a full, layered wine with citrus, stone fruit and length to spare.

The surprise here, however, is the “Art” Pinot Bianco 2022 from Abraham, which is bottled under the Vigneti delle Dolomiti appellation. It’s sharply mineral, taut and laced with pink grapefruit, apricot skin and a saline, toasted finish that calls to mind top-tier white Burgundy.

But the pinot biancos are just part of the evolving tapestry of Alto Adige. The Isarco Valley produces salty, vibrant wines – grüner veltliner here is a hidden gem and gewurztraminer shows renewed energy. In Val Venosta, pinot noir reveals rare tension alongside the famed crus of Montagna and Mazzon. And with 86 officially recognized Additional Geographical Units, or UGAs, the region is poised for a new leap forward – driven not by volume, but by place, detail, and quiet confidence.

– Aldo Fiordelli, Senior Editor

The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated by the JamesSuckling.com tasting team. They include many latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. 

Note: You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.