Sonoma’s Chardonnay Stunners, Plus Pure and Precise from Beaujolais

California is making some of the best chardonnays in the world at the moment, and the top wines can compete with the best white Burgundies. That was clear recently when James and Editor-at-Large Jim Gordon rated four 2024 chardonnays 100 points: two from Aubert and two from Kistler.

The wines were the Aubert Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard 2024, Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma County Sonoma Coast Lauren Estate 2024, Kistler Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2024 and Kistler Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River Valley Laguna Ridge Vineyard 2024. All come from a 2024 vintage that appears to be excellent for California whites, following the late and more delicate 2023 vintage.

“This was a really normal year,” Mark Aubert told James during a tasting of his 2024 chardonnays at his winery. “There were no days over 90 [degrees Fahrenheit] in September. It was a perfect growing season and perfect timing for pinot and chardonnay.”

Aubert said the 2024 harvest started and ended almost a month earlier than in 2023, a late vintage that produced slightly lighter and more delicate reds and whites. By contrast, he described 2024 as “really a typical Aubert vintage. Nice and ripe and not over the top.”

The two 100-point wines from Aubert show the depth and precision possible in the vintage. James likened the Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard chardonnay to a top Corton-Charlemagne for its density, intensity and oily, honeyed dried-apple character. The Lauren Estate bottling was slightly less deep and powerful but showed some of the most beautiful aromas James has encountered recently in a white wine.

For readers who cannot find those two wines, Aubert released another seven 2024 chardonnays that are also worth seeking out. His 2024 pinot noirs are equally compelling.

Jim tasted the Kistler 2024 lineup with winemaker and president Jason Kesner and was just as impressed. The Hyde Vineyard chardonnay, from one of California’s most important chardonnay sites, shows deep concentration while keeping a surprisingly light feel. Since all Kistler chardonnay vineyards are planted with Wente clone vines sourced from Hyde Vineyard, it seems fitting that one of the winery’s two 100-point wines came from Hyde itself.

In this vintage, the Kistler Hyde is a baritone of a chardonnay, with deep golden-fruit flavors, mineral and oyster-shell character through the midpalate and finish, and the richness of Hyde Vineyard without heaviness.

The Kistler Laguna Ridge Vineyard 2024 offers a clear contrast. It is more agile, linear and fresh, earning its perfect score for balance, energy and concentration. Kistler bottles it only in magnum – a signal from the winery that the wine is built for further aging.

Kesner described the 2024 growing season as a “neo-classic” one. “All the phenological phases were warmly familiar,” he said. “After a few cool growing seasons, ’24 was spot on – what we expect to see.”

“It was a classic vintage for Kistler,” he added. “But the neo-emphasis comes from pulling back just a little on the wines’ power. Using some restraint gave energy, mixed with the phenomenal California growing season.”

There is a range of top-rated chardonnays and pinot noirs from Kistler in this report, as well as strong wines from other California specialists including Hirsch Vineyards, Platt Vineyard, Bob Cabral and J Vineyards. Jasmine Hirsch poured her 2023 pinot noirs for James in Hong Kong about two weeks ago and said many people have already described the wines as more aromatic, delicate and “old-style Burgundy” in nature. Her highest-rated bottle was the Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma County Sonoma Coast Block 8 2023 (98 points).

A full array of new and high-scoring Sonoma cabernet sauvignons from Aperture, Calluna and Hamel Family also appears in this week’s report of 482 wines, adding another dimension to the California coverage.

Juicy Beaujolais

For readers looking for something fresher and lighter than California chardonnay, pinot noir or cabernet sauvignon, Beaujolais offers a useful counterpoint this week. James and Marie often open Beaujolais when they want something fruity, direct and satisfying, and the best bottles in this report underline why the region remains one of the most drinkable sources of characterful red wine.

We tasted 184 Beaujolais over the last two months, giving a broad view of two very different recent vintages. Most of the wines were from 2024, a wet and cold year that produced generally fresh, light and transparent reds with bright fruit, crisp acidity and moderate alcohol. The best wines show purity and precision rather than weight, with the top crus carrying the vintage’s energy without feeling thin.

Among the highest-rated 2024s were the Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie, Domaine de Boischampt Juliénas Les 4 Cerisiers and Domaine de la Grand Cour Fleurie, all rated 95 points. Domaine de la Grand Cour’s Fleurie Tous Ensemble (95) also showed the clarity and aromatic lift that made the best 2024s compelling. Other strong bottles came from Dominique Piron, Michel Guignier, Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Domaine Les Capréoles and Laura Lardy, underlining the consistency across Morgon, Fleurie, Brouilly, Juliénas and Côte de Brouilly.

The 2023s were a clear contrast: hotter, richer and more generous, often with darker fruit, fuller tannins and broader textures. Some wines carried the warmth well, particularly from producers with the balance and vineyard material to keep freshness in the finish. Together, the two vintages show the range of modern Beaujolais, from the crunchy, perfumed and drinkable 2024s to the more layered and structured 2023s.

This week’s report shows the range of wines now coming through the tasting pipeline, from some of California’s most precise and ageworthy chardonnays to fresh, lively Beaujolais and a strong group of Sonoma cabernets. It is also a reminder that the most compelling wines are not defined by weight or power alone, but by balance, site character and clarity.

– Top contributions this week from James Suckling and Jim Gordon.

The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated during the past week by the JamesSuckling.com tasting team. They include many latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. Some will be included in upcoming tasting reports.

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