Rating Biodynamics: Finding the True Soul of Wine

Many wine lovers could easily have written off the mystical concept of biodynamics were it not for the fact that some of the most celebrated producers in the world, particularly in Europe, have embraced it in their vineyards to make even greater, more soulful wines. In fact, they also frequently appear on the top of our lists. Chacra, a biodynamically farmed winery in Patagonia, released a stunning reference of Argentine pinot noir last year – Pinot Noir Patagonia Treinta y Dos 2018, which was our Wine of the Year in 2020. And Clos Apalta Valle de Apalta 2015 was No. 1 on our list of Top 100 Andean Wines of 2018, as well as a contender for Wine of the Year.

The notion of fostering a self-sustaining vineyard can be viewed as a spiritual, almost metaphysical, step up from organic farming. Yet, only a few people probably know that the principles of biodynamics, which were first postulated by the Austrian philosopher and anthroposophist Rudolf Steiner in 1924, predate organic farming. There is also a political side to Steiner’s principles, as he saw a rural way of life disappearing through industrialization and wanted to canonize his ideals about that way of life.

The ideology that perceives vineyards as organic, self-contained ecosystems where everything is interrelated has our respect. We feel that biodynamic farming is more of a philosophy or guiding set of principles rather than a cult or definite protocol. And the understanding and the execution of it varies from winemaker to winemaker. We clearly see the difference walking through biodynamic vineyards with vibrant and diverse ecosystems. Whether wines from these specially tended vines are better than traditional ones is a matter of debate.

Biodynamic farming is based on organic agriculture, which renounces the use of agrichemicals and synthetic fertilizers, but it is stricter and much broader in many ways. For example, the amount of so-called “Bordeaux mixture” (a fungicide made of copper sulphate, lime and water) allowed in biodynamic-certified farming is much less than in organic farming, leaving less copper residue in the soil. Whereas outside fertilizers are permitted in organic farming, biodynamic agriculture requires fertility to come from within the farm through composting. This serves to maximize microbial activities in the soil and enhance the vineyard’s “immune system” through homeopathic methods that could sound bizarre and abstruse to some but are totally comprehensible to others.

The biodynamic vineyard sustains itself through recycling the “energies” from the animals that live within it, thus providing fertility to the soil. It is why creatures as small as bees and as big as horses are so crucial in a biodynamic vineyard, as well as two other natural sources of energy: minerals and vegetation. And so, special biodynamic recipes are prescribed and prepared, such as so-called horn manure, also known as Preparation BD 500. This involves putting cow manure in a cow horn and burying it in the soil over the winter to let it ferment. It is then diluted with water in the spring, stirred precisely, and sprinkled on the vineyard soil.

The logic behind this is that manure is considered a source of growing energy that stimulates the microbial activities in the soil to create high-quality humus. Ground quartz crystal prepared in a similar way (Preparation BD 501) is applied to intensify the power of sunlight to ripen the grapes while it possibly transmits an inhibitive force on the growth of foliage as harvest approaches (think yin and yang).

Other preparations, such as oak bark (BD505) and horsetail plant (BD508), are used to prevent diseases. Yarrow (BD502), chamomile (BD503), stinging nettle tea (BD504), dandelion (BD506), and valerian flowers (BD507) are added as vegetal elements to the compost to enhance soil vitality.

The cosmic position of the moon and planets is also thought to have a critical influence on the vine and thus affects viticultural and winemaking decisions, from when to plant, prune and harvest to determining the right time for extraction and racking (done according to the four types of days in the biodynamic calendar: Root Day, Leaf Day, Flower Day and Fruit Day).

Some biodynamics enthusiasts even believe that such an effect extends to how certain wines perform after bottling and exert an influence over when the best time is to open and enjoy any particular bottle – something that might make many scientists and wine scholars frown.

GAINING GROUND

Today, more than 800 wine producers worldwide in over 20 countries are biodynamically certified, mostly through the Demeter federation and Biodyvin. if you look at the distribution, Europe is still a stronghold of biodynamic farming, with some of the top producers – especially those from Germany, France, Italy and Austria – delivering compelling wines. In Bordeaux, many top producers have converted to biodynamics from either conventional farming or organic farming. Palmer, a leading Third Growth in Margaux, successfully converted its vineyards to biodynamics from organics in 2014 and has been going strong since, and now Latour is doing the same by converting part of its vineyards to biodynamics.

That said, the rest of the world is gaining ground, with some of the regions that are less climatically marginal, such as Chile and Argentina, showing great promise for organic and biodynamic farming. Clos Apalta, Seña, Emiliana, Araucano and Bodega Chacra make some of the top-rated biodynamic wines we know from South America. On the other side of the world, New Zealand, which is already known for green and sustainable farming, is moving proactively toward biodynamic wines, too, with producers like Rippon and Felton Roads in Central Otago delivering some of the country’s best pinot noirs and chardonnays.

SECRET TO SUCCESS: Thomas Duroux of Chateau Palmer in Bordeaux explains what went into the making of the 2018.

Over the past 12 months, we have tasted at least 750 wines in this category (only those that state biodynamically certified). While the metaphysical principles involved in biodynamic farming can be argued over endlessly, we have found a commonality in the biodynamic wines: the purity and raciness of their aromas and flavors, which often show focus, precision, real succulence, energy and even a distinctive texture.

Of course, you could argue that converting vineyards to biodynamics is only for rich producers, as the humbler of their number likely would not be able to afford the cost of it, and the prospect of losing a third of their crop when mildew spreads (and not being able to deploy enough Bordeaux mixture to prevent it), would be too daunting. Other than that, what your neighbors do can also have a big impact to your vineyard, as the ecosystem is not set according to the lines drawn between your parcels and those next door.

And we don’t even know for sure if there is a correlation between the positive tasting results and all the spiritual, metaphysical work involved in the biodynamic processes. It may simply be organic agriculture performing its magic, or perhaps the practice of biodynamic farming allows growers and winemakers to spend so much more time in their vineyards and make wine with homeopathic methods in the winery, resulting in a more precise vinicultural process and a more natural, honest utterance of winemaking.

The concept of biodynamics invites growers to think flexibly, beyond what is already known or perceived. It also gives us a chance to empathize with all the lives in the ecosystem and find harmony with them – but that is easier said than done in a highly industrialized and materialized society, where efficiency is king and the balance between materialism and spiritualism is easily tipped.

At least as far as winemaking goes, biodynamic farming is meant to restore this balance, serving to prevent and heal rather than to fix and cure. Which is to say, the easiest fix is rarely the best, and there are no real shortcuts in making a fine wine.

POSITIVE CHANGE: The winemaker and estate director of Quintessa explain the impact biodynamic processes have had on their operations in Napa Valley, California.

– Zekun Shuai, associate editor

The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated for this report by the tasters at JamesSuckling.com. They include many of the latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. 

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