Redefining the Strength of Sangiovese

For years, the very qualities that made Chianti Classico distinct were also those that kept it in the shadow of bolder, fleshier Tuscan wines. But today, what was once perceived as a shortcoming – its nervy, taut character, the natural outcome of sangiovese grown in rugged terrain – is increasingly being recognized as its defining strength.

The mental image many hold of Tuscany is of a rolling sea of golden hills and pencil-thin cypresses – a postcard-perfect Val d’Orcia. The Chianti region, however, is a different Tuscany altogether: steeper, rockier and cooler, with a more continental climate than one might expect this far south. That difference shapes not just the landscape but the wine itself.

Here, the Black Rooster (or Gallo Nero, in Italian) – Chianti Classico’s iconic emblem – guards a style of wine that is typically lighter in body, fresher on the palate and lower in alcohol than its Tuscan cousins. This used to be seen as a flaw; today, in an era of climate extremes and palate fatigue, it’s a prized distinction.

And the region’s strengths don’t show up in lab results. They’re written into the contours of the land. Chianti Classico spans some 70,000 hectares between Florence and Siena – roughly the size of Bordeaux – but only 10 percent of that is under vine. The rest is a patchwork of olive groves, mixed farming, and – critically – forest. That biodiversity, increasingly rare in wine regions trending toward monoculture, lends equilibrium and complexity to the wines.

Still, it took a reimagining of the region’s potential to bring it into sharp relief. That breakthrough came with the introduction of the Gran Selezione category – a commercial designation, yes, but also a lightning rod for quality, pushing producers to explore nuance and site expression like never before.

The lesson learned? Sangiovese doesn’t merely suffice – it excels. And when cultivated with care, it offers a prism through which the region’s multifaceted personality comes into view.

The 241 wines under review here, tasted at the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, fall into the Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione categories – labels that speak to longer aging and higher ambition within the appellation. By the end of the summer, we will taste up to 600 Chianti Classicos, so watch this space.

But 2024 also marks a turning point for Chianti Classico producers: for the first time, they are allowed to print the names of Chianti Classico’s subzones on their labels, at least for the Gran Selezione tier. This regulatory change, introduced in 2023, is now beginning to take shape in the market.

Given the aging requirements of Gran Selezione, most of the wines reflecting this new geographic designation are from the 2021 vintage. However, earlier vintages may also qualify, provided the winery can document their compliance with the new guidelines.

Now, enthusiasts are beginning to recognize the signatures of Chianti Classico’s many villages. Gaiole shows freshness, Radda delivers layered complexity, Montefioralle glows with grace, Greve lends an austere edge, Panzano is all about plush fruit and Castelnuovo Berardenga leans into spice. San Casciano and Castellina interpret fruit in almost opposing dialects. These generalizations are built atop years of deep soil and climate study – but more convincing, they’re increasingly evident in the glass.

This cultural leap forward has helped producers navigate recent extreme vintages with newfound agility.

The 2021s, now hitting the market, are powerful yet balanced – structured, at times austere, but of excellent quality. The 2022 vintage, hot and dry, offered few surprises to local growers who have adapted to such patterns with precision viticulture. Tasting previews suggest a surprising finesse. The 2023 vintage was complicated by downy mildew, but Chianti Classico’s relative abundant rainfall proved an unexpected advantage compared to drier zones elsewhere.

Francesco Ricasoli, proprietor of Barone Ricasoli at Castello di Brolio in Gaiole, put it plainly: “It’s frustrating to reduce a vintage to one word – ‘hot’ or ‘dry.’ Sure, 2022 was both, but we avoided overripe flavors by focusing on canopy management, ground cover and soil hydration. Ten or 15 years ago, it was the winemaker who got the spotlight. Today, it’s the agronomist.”

Some, like Riecine, chose to delay the release of their 2022s, judging them “not quite ready.” Winemaker Alessandro Campatelli described the 2021 as “another milestone for Chianti Classico – warmer than 2019, with slightly higher alcohol, but on par in quality thanks to its marked acidity and aging potential.”

Meanwhile, a younger generation is pushing the region into the present. Angela Fronti of Istine reflected on the 2021 vintage as one of contrasts: “It was a fragmented harvest, from a hot summer buffered by early autumn rains. Our Istine cru was a challenge but now shows great complexity. Cavarchione was accessible from the start; Casanova is more structured, more ‘Radda’ in its profile.”

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Among standout 2022s, Gaiole’s high-altitude limestone soils gave rise to an exquisitely filigreed Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledilà 2022. It’s a wine of clarity and elegance, with red currants, wax, violet and a chalky mineral thread. The tannins are ripe and almost silky, soaked in cherry fruit, with chewy acidity and incredible aftertaste tension – licorice, graphite and all.

Another highlight: the Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Rancia 2022. Following a stellar 2021, this vintage confirms the cru’s stature. Deep and dark, with black cherries, plums, dried rose and incense, it has the vertical lift of bergamot and a complexity bordering on vermouth. The palate is firm and dusted with tannins, long and refreshing, and – though a touch stern now – built to age.

Brancaia’s Gran Selezione 2022 impresses for its clarity and depth. Red and black cherries, pomegranate, and a dusting of white pepper and licorice come together in a sleek, refined palate – velvety, fruit-soaked tannins lead into a long finish scented with blond tobacco.

Castellare di Castellina’s Riserva Il Poggiale Riserva 2022 offered another surprise – fresh and leafy in style, with kiwi skin, red berries and subtle florals. The attack is assertive yet polished, with fine tannins and a zesty, red-fruited conclusion.

Among the 2021s, few rivaled the Ipsus Gran Selezione from the Mazzei family – a wine of restraint and mineral depth. Aromas of slate, schist, dried cherry and potpourri meet orange zest and violet. Medium to full-bodied, it’s graceful and savory, with fine tannins cloaked in fruit. Crisp, if not piercing, it’s long, chalky and ageworthy. Look for its release in October.

Equally impressive, Marchesi Antinori’s San Sano 2021, one of the family’s newer crus, is all drive and dimension. James Suckling remarked on its energy, noting crushed stone, violet, raspberry and a linear structure. Taut acidity, bright fruit and a powerful finish sealed the impression.

Then there’s a wine that has quietly become a benchmark: the Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano 2021, a bush-trained vineyard planted two decades ago on east-facing limestone. Restrained and layered, it weaves together cinnamon, blood orange, gingerbread and earthy strawberries. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and refreshing acidity, it’s as elegant as it is enduring.

Older vintages, too, made an impression: the Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 shows depth and poise, with potpourri, dried cherries and mineral earthiness. The Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2020, from a certified biodynamic estate, emphasizes freshness – violets, blood oranges, and red cherries set against a cedarwood backdrop. Medium-bodied, with juicy acidity and a Mediterranean herb finish, it speaks of place and patience.

And from the same vintage, the Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio 2020 is more reductive in style – with roses, violets, rhubarb and chalk. Supple and medium- to full-bodied, it closes on a tight, juicy note, all elegance and minerality.

What’s clear is that Chianti Classico is not just reclaiming its past – it’s redefining what Tuscan wine can be in a warming world. Through geology, biodiversity and a new generation of thoughtful producers, this historic region is proving that freshness, precision, and place aren’t just ideals – they’re the new standard.

– Aldo Fiordelli, Senior Editor

The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated by the tasters at JamesSuckling.com. Note: You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.