Resilient and Confident, Victoria Finds its Groove

654 TASTING NOTES
Friday, Oct 03, 2025

Left: Mulline wines' Portartlington vineyard in Geelong is framed by a background of the You Yangs ridges. | Right: Serrat's latest releases shined in this report, including the Serrat Shiraz Viognier Yarra Valley 2024 (center).

After back-to-back cold and wet La Niña vintages in 2022 and 2023 that challenged viticulture across much of southeastern Australia, particularly the state of Victoria, the 2024 vintage marks a return to more classic conditions in Victoria – warmer, drier and early, with generous fruit profiles and wines that show a sense of balance and ease.

My recent visit to Victoria encompassed visits with dozens of producers and tasting about 400 wines from across the state’s key growing regions, including the Yarra Valley, Macedon Ranges, Heathcote, Geelong, Beechworth and the often-overlooked Grampians. Most of the wines were from the newly bottled 2024 vintage, which forms the core of this report, alongside a small group of well-known late-release 2023s from benchmark producers such as Mount Mary and Giaconda. In total, we rated more than 650 bottles from Victoria producers.

The transition from the 2023s to the 2024s couldn’t have been starker, both in style and in the growing conditions faced by producers. The 2023 season in Victoria was cool and late, yielding wines of delicacy and restraint – lower in alcohol, fine-boned and elegant. In contrast, 2024 was early, compressed and warm, thus delivering riper, fruit-driven wines with structure and surprising freshness. Taken together, these vintages reveal the resilience of Victoria’s vineyards and the adaptability of its winemakers.

Tom Carson of Serrat touring his close-planted vineyard in the Yarra Valley.

The Yarra Valley, which is about 60 kilometers northeast of the state capital, Melbourne, was where the most profound transition from previous years to 2024 could be seen. Melanie Chester, the head winemaker at Giant Steps, said the 2024 harvest was completed over three weeks rather than the usual six, as well as being 10 days earlier than usual.

Despite the shortened season, the wines show impressive clarity and vibrancy. The Giant Steps Chardonnay Yarra Valley Applejack Vineyard 2024 is perhaps the most complete single-vineyard bottling from the latest lineup. Flinty and floral, it offers a taut palate of mineral precision and subtle power. This is a wine that will evolve beautifully with time in bottle.

That sense of precision and fruit-driven wines extends to the Serrat winery, where co-owner Tom Carson has set a new benchmark. His Serrat Shiraz Viognier Yarra Valley 2024 is deeply perfumed and impeccably balanced, with violet, smoked meat and a silken palate that retains purity and structure.

Pinot noir remains a regional strength, with fresh, textural bottlings from Hoddles Creek and Timo Mayer offering depth and aromatic lift.

Giant steps head winemaker Melanie Chester (left) and her assistant, Michael Latham, taste through their latest releases with Associate Editor Ryan Montgomery.

The best of these show how winemakers embraced the season’s intensity while preserving the transparency of site. At Mount Mary, winemaker Sam Middleton offered perspective on the dramatic vintage shift. “Some people forgot that the start of the 2023 vintage was good. It was a tale of two halves – early varieties like chardonnay and pinot got warmth, but cabernet had to hang into April, with rain coming through at the end," he said.

He compared the year to 2015, 2017 and 2021. Among the standouts, the Mount Mary Yarra Valley Triolet 2023 – a white blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle – delivered exceptional clarity and depth, with pithy citrus, cool-toned energy and a long, mineral finish reminiscent of top-tier Pessac-Leognan and is one of the highest scored white wines in Australia this year.

Moving north, the Macedon Ranges revealed a very different expression of cool-climate winemaking. Michael Dhillon of Bindi Wines continues to define the region’s identity with offerings of tension and purity. His Bindi Pinot Noir Macedon Ranges Original Vineyard 2024 is a masterclass in restraint and harmony, its fine tannins and coiled acidity giving way to graceful layers of spice, cherry and earth. The Bindi Chardonnay Macedon Ranges Quartz 2024 follows suit, with reductive edge and precision, framed by quartz soil intensity and layered fruit.

Nearby, Steve Flamsteed has brought renewed energy to Curly Flat, coming in as a consultant, while Joshua Cooper and his family continue to lead with minimal-intervention, site-expressive bottlings at Cobaw Ridge. The Cobaw Ridge Chardonnay Macedon Ranges 2024, from P58 clone vines planted in 1986, shows bright acidity, texture and mineral line despite undergoing full maloactic fermentation – an impressive balance that reflects both site and style.

Cooper also bottles wines under his own label from across central Victoria, including one of the country’s most fascinating new- wave cabernets. The Joshua Cooper Cabernet Sauvignon Victoria Old Vine Cuvee II is a blend of the best parcels from his single-vineyard bottlings (which are also a must try), all from vines planted in 1970 across two regions. The palate is medium-bodied yet densely packed, carrying layers of black fruit and mineral, with firmly framed yet seamless tannins. Aged in terracotta and amphora for 12 months before bottling, it is both refined and distinctive.

Josh Cooper (left) and his father, Alan Cooper (right) are the brains behind Cobaw Ridge Winery in the Macedon Ranges.
Tasting at Lethbridge with Indra Nadeson, who assists her father, Ray, in the winemaking operation.
Ben Mullen, the co-owner of Mulline, works single vineyards across all three of Geelong's subregions.
Mount Mary's single-vineyard estate sits in the heart of Yarra Valley.

At Jasper Hill in Heathcote, Emily McNally and her husband, Nick, are now leading the estate into its next era. The 2024s represent a turning point, with the Jasper Hill Shiraz Heathcote Georgia's Paddock 2024 showing layers of black and blue fruits underpinned by a mineral undertone. The palate is integrated, with acidity providing backbone and tannins that feel almost silken. It is a wine of balance, where fruit, earth and vineyard character come together with polish.

In Geelong, Ray Nadeson, the owner and head winemaker at Lethbridge Wines, continues to impress with site-focused chardonnay. The newly released Lethbridge Chardonnay Geelong Allegra 2019, held back five years in bottle before release, is tightly wound, with pure mineral acidity and a rounded, textural mouthfeel that balances generous fruit with a hint of reduction. From a vineyard planted in 1968, it shows both pedigree and patience.

Ben Mullen, the co-founder of Mulline Wines with Ben Hine, works with single vineyards across all three Geelong subregions. His Mulline Chardonnay Geelong Portarlington 2024 sits on the edge of reduction. The palate is mid-weighted with a textural mouthfeel and striking acidity that carries underlying power and tension. From a vineyard just 200 meters from the ocean, it shows a saline edge with some weight and texture while retaining electric drive and definition.

READ MORE WEATHERING THE STORM: MARGARET RIVER HONES ITS WINE GAME AMID CLIMATE CHANGE

The Best's Pinot Meunier Great Western Old Vine 2024 stands out as a rare and refined old-vine bottling from the Grampians.

Victoria’s cool-climate wine region of Beechworth, meanwhile, provided one of the most memorable highlights of our tastings. The Giaconda Chardonnay Beechworth Estate Vineyard 2023 demonstrates why Rick Kinzbrunner’s estate remains one of the most revered names in Australian wine. Despite the difficulties of the 2023 vintage, Giaconda delivered a world-class chardonnay. The balanced palate shows striking acidity and a creamy, textured mouthfeel that finishes with power and intensity, underpinned by a salty mineral note.

Farther west, the Grampians and its prized Great Western vineyards remain a source of old-vine finesse. Best’s Wines continues to lead, with the Best's Pinot Meunier Great Western Old Vine 2024 standing as a rare and refined bottling. Drawn from the world’s oldest producing pinot meunier vines, planted in 1868, it shows fragrant aromas of wild strawberries, blueberry bush, rose petals, citrus peel and dried herbs. The palate is textural and creamy, with medium body and seamlessly integrated tannins. There are no hard edges, only a delicate frame with aromatic lift and refinement.

These contrasting vintages highlight both the resilience of Victoria’s vineyards and the confidence of its winemakers. The 2023s show restraint and precision, while the 2024s, though warmer and faster, delivered freshness and energy alongside ripeness. Together, they underline why Victoria remains one of the most compelling wine regions in Australia and the source of some of the greatest-value wines coming out of the country. Lay down your 2023 whites while drinking the reds and sitting on your 2024s, although all will give instant gratification.

– Ryan Montgomery, Associate Editor

The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated during the past week by the tasters at JamesSuckling.com. They include many latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. Some will be included in upcoming tasting reports.

Note: You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.

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