Tasting Report: Durif Duty, The Big Reds of Rutherglen

Sixteen winemakers from Rutherglen recently descended on Melbourne armed with a selection of their durif (petite sirah) wines. The region is best known for the deeply historic Muscat and Topaque (tokay) wines, but for this tasting, I looked beyond these revered fortifieds to bold red table wines that are also important to the region. 

Rutherglen Durif wines have traditionally been massive with very assertive tannins and high alcohols. That wasn’t so much the case this time, as I spotted a clear evolution playing out. The wines were more gently extracted with softer tannins and suppler fruit flesh. In line with the varietal, the ripeness remained, although this too was tapered back subtly. 

I can’t help but admire the hearty dark plum and blackberry fruit flavours that these wines offer. They’re hedonistic and undeniably concentrated. They deliver a convincing regional style that reflects the hot, dry summer that is typical of Rutherglen’s growing season. Durif works here because it’s tough in the vineyard but can be tamed in the winery.

I suggest drinking these wines right away, but that’s not to say that they won’t evolve and deliver more complexity and interest over time. I do worry about the uniformly high alcohols here, so where the balance is right, I recommend uncorking them now and, if you’re keen, stack some away in the cellar.

Photos from top to bottom: Rutherglen durif vats; Rutherglen grape vines 

- Nick Stock 

Nick is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.