Tasting Report: 100 Outstanding Sicilian Wines Not To Miss
Sicily released on the market some exciting reds and whites this year, and they are not just from Etna. Sure the volcano wines of Etna are the new flavor of the month for many wine pros and lovers a like, and they should be. Fantastic reds and whites are being produced from fantastic single vineyards with old vines and it's been like that for over a decade now. (Photo at right: Valle dell'Acate Vineyards)
However, a number of other Sicilian producers and appellations are rocking the quality wine world right now, in particular the wines produced from vineyards around the town of Vittoria, such as Cerasuolo di Vittoria. And many of the wines are from organically or biodynamically grown grapes. Some are even made in terracotta amphorae.
I spent a week this summer in Sicily - like I do most summers - and I tasted numerous wines there in addition to what was reviewed at my place in Tuscany. I tasted about 200 wines in total. I have more to taste this fall.
The wines from indigenous grapes are the most impressive such as nero d'avola, frappato and nerello mascalese, which both make stylish reds with unique character. But I am equally excited about whites made of carricante from Etna and Grillo, particularly from the area of Noto, about an hours drive from Catania. Both make fresh and minerally whites along the lines of fine Chablis, underlying the special soils and climates of their respective areas.
As for vintages, I must admit that I am less excited about 2012 overall compared to 2011. The wines, both red and white, seem slightly overdone from the hot growing season. Nonetheless, I loved a couple of 2102s from Girolamo Russo and Tenuta delle Terre Nere, in particular the Etna reds from the contradas from Feudo di Mezzo and Guardiola. I scored both 95 points. The 2012 old vine bottling from Terre Nere - Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino - also received 95 points and is a quality red, although I prefer the 2011.
Cos was my favorite producer from Sicily this year, particularly his wines made in amphorae designate Pithos. They show such marvelous character and structure. Their drinkability, both white and red, is a revelation. And they sell for about $30 a bottle or less.
Giusto Occhipinti, one of the owners of Cos and winemaker, simply shrugs off complements when you speak to him about his wines. "I just make wines that I like to drink," he says.
His niece, Arianna Occhipinti, is also making soulful wines at her nearby winery. And I love the precision in her winemaking and the drinkability of her wines, which are made from organically grown grapes. "I am just at the beginning of my winemaking career and I have so much more to achieve," she says.
Don't miss buying and drinking some top Sicilian wines this year. You won't be disappointed. And they are excellent values as well.
