Tasting Report: 2006 Barolo (English)
I have always been a little leery of the quality of 2006 for Barolo. It might be because the maestro of the appellation, Bruno Giacosa, decided not to bottle the vintage. How can 2006 be a top year when Giacosa doesn’t bottle?
Nonetheless, I think many outstanding 2006 Barolos are out there. They are not the opulent style that I tend to prefer in my Nebbiolos such as 2005, 2000 or 1997. And they are not the style of slightly firm and more classic years like 1996, 2001, and 2004. However, they are in the league of 1999 and 1995 (without hail) – very good to outstanding years that made firm and racy Barolos.
I have spoken to a number of Barolo producers and they are more than happy with the quality of their 2006s. “I think it is one of the best vintages ever for us,” said Pio Boffa, the head of the esteemed Barolo firm of Pio Cesare in Alba. “The wines have more structure than the 2005s.”
Luciano Sandrone also thinks his 2006 Barolos are up with his best. “I like their aromatic quality and their structure. These are serious Barolos.”
Alas, I only found two wines in my tasting of close 170 Barolos that I scored 95 points or more – clearly exceptional quality wines. They were 2006 Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano and 2006 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Vecchie Vite dei Capalot e delle Brunate Riserva. These two wines have more density and richness than anything out there in the vintage. They prove that top vineyard sites can produce truly exceptional wines in less than optimum years.
My other top 2006 Barolos included Azelia Barolo San Rocco (94 points), Damilano Barolo Liste (94 points), Fratelli Revello Barolo Vigna Giachini (94 points), Giacomo Conterno Barolo (94 points), Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche (94 points), and 19 wines at 93 points: Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasc, Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche, Conterno-Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra, Corino Barolo Vigneto Arborina, Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana, Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi, Luciano Sandrone Le Vigne, M. Marengo Barolo Vecchia Vigna Delle Brunate, Paolo Manzone Barolo Meriame, Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio, Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc, Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato, Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco, Renato Ratti Barolo Conca, Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenesco, Roberto Voerzio Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata Torriglione, Roberto Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo, Vietti Barolo Rocche, and Vietti Barolo Brunate.
In all, I found 120 Barolos that were outstanding quality, or 90 points or more. I thought most of the Barolos should be approachable in another one to three years, and will improve with age in the bottle for 10 or 15 years to come. Prices should be about the same as the 2005 and 2004 Barolos still on the shelves.
Barolos tasted but less than 90 points:
Aldo & Riccardo Seghesio Vigneto La Villa Aurelio Settimo Aurelio Settimo Rocche Beni di Batasiolo Beni di Batasiolo Vigneto Cerequio Boasso Margheria Boroli Bruna Grimaldi Badarina Bruna Grimaldi Camilla Ca' Romé di Romano Marengo Vigna Cerretta Cascina Adelaide Cannubi Cascina Ballarin Bussia Ciabot Berton Roggeri Claudio Alario Sorano Colle dei Venti Tùfo Blu Cordero di Montezemol Bricco Gattera Damilano Cannubi Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Ettore Germano Serralunga Fontanafredda La Rosa Fontanafredda La Villa Fratelli Alessandria Fratelli Revello Gianni Gagliardo Cannubi Josetta Saffirio L’Illuminata Tebavio Luigi Einaudi Terlo M. Marengo Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Mauro Veglio Michele Chiarlo Cerequio Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Monti Bussia Osvaldo Viberti Pecchenino San Giuseppe Pira Via Nuova Prunotto Prunotto Bussia Reverdito Roberto Voerzio Brunate Rocche Costamagna Bricco Francesco Rocche dei Manzoni Rocche Ruggeri & C. San Pietro Ruggeri Corsini Sebaste Monvigliero Sergio Barale Castellero Serradenari Tenuta Rocca San Pietro Virna Virna Cannubi Boschis Virna Preda Sarmassa
