Tasting Report: Australian Cabernet Sauvignons and More…

I thought that all Australian Cabernet Sauvignons would be full-throttle high-octane reds, but the majority of the Cabs I tasted during my nearly three-week trip across the great wine continent were the complete opposite. Most were reasonable in alcohol and slightly herbal – in fact, some were too herbal for me, showing intense vegetal or mint character. It would appear that Australians are not afraid of a clear Cabernet varietal expression, whereas Americans, perhaps, are hesitant when it comes to expressing Cabernet’s natural hint of leafiness.

Some Cabernets are pure varietal expressions, but most may include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, or Petit Verdot as well in the Bordeaux vein.

When you find a great Aussie Cabernet, they really are something. For example, the 2004 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Kalimna Block 42 blew me away, although Barossa is not necessarily known as a region for Cabernet. I gave the wine a perfect 100 points. It’s one of the few Barossa reds that shows an incredible complexity, richness and power without being over-the-top or overly alcoholic. Balance with intensity is what comes to mind.

It’s part of Penfolds’ “Special Bin” program and made from vines planted in the mid-1880s, which are still alive and flourishing on their own rootstock. These are what some believe are the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world. About 500 cases were made. It’s only been made twice: 2004 and 1996.

For a more earthly but thoroughly outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, get your hands on the 2009 Cullen Margaret River Diana Madeline: 98 points. Vanya Cullen may be Australia’s greatest Cabernet producer and she does it all with biodynamically farmed grapes. Her Cab-based reds are modern classics with a combination of richness, depth and structure with relatively low alcohols. The 2009 is only 12.5 percent alcohol. Even first growth Bordeaux nowadays are well above that in alcohol in a top vintage.

Vanya says that she doesn’t need high alcohol to ripen her grapes to perfection because her vines are in prefect balance with their environment. In other words, phenolic ripeness is achieved at moderate alcohol. The ancient, stony soils of her vineyards in Margaret River come out clearly in the 2009. It’s intensely fruity, with sleek and racy tannin structure and fresh acidity. Give it another five years to soften, but it’s glorious to taste already. The is #realaussiewine – my Twitter has a tag that has taken hold to denote great quality, balanced and harmonious Australian wines of place.

Margaret River is clearly making the best Cabs of Australia on mass. Of my top 10 Cabernets, eight were from Margaret River. The wines remind me of old school Cabernets from Napa Valley in the 1960s and 1970s, when structure and finesse were more valued inside of high alcohol and sweetness. There’s also nearly always an underlying fresh herb with currant and dark berry character in the wines that remind me of the reds of the region of Pauillac, Bordeaux.

For some of the best Cabernets of Margaret River, look for such names as Clairault, Happs, Juniper, Moss Wood, Pedestal Vineyard, Vasse Felix, and Woodlands. I have a slight preference for the 2009 vintage but 2008 also made many excellent Cabs.

Also tasted, but not receiving marks of 90 points or more:

2009 Charles Melton Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley

2007 Highbank Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Family Reserve

2009 Higher Plane Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River

2009 Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Western Australia Abercrombie

2002 Langmeil Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Jackaman's

2010 Mc Henry Hohnen Cabernet-Merlot Margaret River 

2009 Penley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Phoenix

2008 Stella Bella Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Serie Luminosa

2009 Wirra Wirra Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Dead Ringer

2006 Brown Brothers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon King Valley Patricia

2009 Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Ashmead Single Vineyard

2008 Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon Eden Valley Cyril

2006 Leeuwin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Art Series

2009 Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Western Australia Mad Fish Sideways

2010 Penfolds Shiraz-Cabernet South Australia Koonunga Hill Seventy Six

2006 Brown Brothers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Victoria Patricia

2008 Chateau Tanunda Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Noble Baron

2007 Clairault Cabernet-Merlot Margaret River

2008 Dalwhinnnie Cabernet Sauvignon Grampians Moonabel

2005 Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon Tasmania Domaine A

2008 Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley

2007 Leeuwin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Art Series

2009 Howard Park  Cabernet Sauvignon Great Southern  Scotsdale

2010 Seville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Valley Old Vine Reserve

2009 Teusner Cabernet Sauvignon Eden Valley

2009 Clairault Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River

2010 La Violetta Cabernet Sauvignon Great Southern le Rayon

2008 Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Mentor

2008 Saltram Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Winemaker's Selection

2004 Brookland Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Reserve

2010 Brown Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Hannans

2010 Chalk Hills Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale

2009 Palmer Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River

2010 Seville Estate Cabernet-Merlot Yarra Valley The Barber

2008 Highbank Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Family Reserve

2009 Bowen Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon

2009 Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Western Australia Miamup

2009 Clarendon Hills Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Clarendon

2009 Bowen Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 

2009 The Yard Cabernet Sauvignon Great Southern Frankand River Western Australia

2007 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Heytesbury