Tasting Report: Australian Semillons

Australian Semillon has had a bad wrap at home. It is largely unknown abroad. Perhaps it’s the searingly high acidity given the early picked nature of the wines? Or people think it is a poor man’s Chardonnay? Perhaps they are too intellectual given their delicacy and need to age? Whatever the reason, it’s not right.

I believe that Aussie Semillon is #realassiewine – twice fold. It is an amazingly versatile grape type that makes bright, steely and racy whites like the best Rieslings of Germany’s Mosel or powerful and rich dry whites like top white Bordeaux. When they age, they can be dead ringers for grand cru white Burgundy.

I can’t think of many whites in the world that have the density of a top Australian Semillon, but then they are relatively low in alcohol, around 10.5 to 11 percent in the Hunter Valley. Even the barrel fermented ones, such as those from Barossa Valley, seldom hit 13 percent alcohol. Maybe some dry Loire whites can be comparable.

The first wine that touched my lips when I arrived in Australia for this trip was a gloriously intense Semillon: 2006 Tyrrell’s Semillon Hunter Valley HVD. I shot a video blog on it.

The Semillons of Hunter Valley tend to be very high in acidity with lots of citrus notes. They are aromatic and flinty when outstanding. They need a year or five of bottle age to show more balance. Bruce Tyrrell says that the screwcap has brought new life into the Semillon, which before may have suffered some pre-oxidation issues.

The wines age wonderfully considering I tasted a 1986 Tyrrell’s Semillon Hunter Valley The Futures that I swear reminded me of a 1986 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne.

I also liked a number of barrel fermented Semillons from Barossa Valley such as The Burge Family Winemakers Semillon from its Olive Hill vineyard in both 2011 and 2006.

Anyway, take a look at this report and try to search out a #realaussiewine Semillon. Enjoy the experience and let me know how you like them.

Also tasted, but not receiving marks of 90 points or more:

2010 Torbreck Semillon Barossa Valley Woddcutter`s

2011 Tulloch Semillon Hunter Valley 

2010 Tulloch Semillon Hunter Valley Julia

2010 Meerea Park Semillon Hunter Valley 

2009 Peppertree Wines Semillon Hunter Valley Limited Release

2011 Bimbadgen Estate Semillon Hunter Valley  

2010 Cockfighter's Ghost Semillon Hunter Valley 

2010 Mistletoe Semillon Hunter Valley Reserve

2010 David Hook Semillon Hunter Valley Belford

2009 Margan Semillon Hunter Valley Limited Release

2010 Cirillo Semillon Barossa Valley 1850 Old Vine

2006 Peter Lehmann Semillon Barossa Valley Margaret

2011 Tower Semillon Hunter Valley 

2010 Mistletoe Semillon Hunter Valley Silvereye