Tasting Report: Bolgheri’s Excellent Wines

Tuscany’s great coastal wine region, Bolgheri, released some excellent wines this year. Most were from the 2009 vintage, which is a slight surprise because most people think 2006, 2007, and 2008 are much better in quality.

In fact, some wines were better in 2009 than the last three vintages. Sassicaia (98 points) is one case in point. Click here to view a blog on recent vintages of Sassicaia. Others include Guado al Tasso, Orma, Ceralti Sonoro, and Tenuta di Biserno Lodovico.

“I always said that 2009 was one of the best vintages of recent,” said Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta, the maker of Sassicaia at his estate Tenuta San Guido. “It was a late harvest and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc really were perfect.”

My top wines in my Bolgheri tasting (including neighboring Bibbona) were: 2009 Sassicaia (98), 2009 Antinori Guado al Tasso (97), 2009 Le Macchiole Messorio (97), Tenuta dell’Ornellaia (96), 2009 Ceralti Sonoro, 2009 Orma, 2009 Masseto, and 2009 Tenuta di Biserno Lodovico.

“We have made so many improvements in the vineyard and winery over the years that we continue to make better wines every year,” said Antonio Moretti, the owner of Orma as well as Valdarno’s Sette Ponti. “We made a better wine in 2009 thanks to all of this.”

I like the pure fruit in so many of the wines in 2009 from Bolgheri. It was the later part of the growing season and harvest that apparently produced this style. “The 2009 was unbalanced for the growing season,” said Leonardo Raspini, manager of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. “The first part was cool and green, but then it was very hot. This gives the wine contrasts.”

I don’t think 2010 is going to be at the same quality level as 2009 or anything prior to 2005. The vintage was plagued by inconsistent weather from big heat spikes in the summer to rain in the early fall. Therefore, I recommend buying 2009 as well as 2008, 2007 and 2006.

This said, I tasted an amazing barrel sample of Masseto. So there may be some exceptional wines in 2010. But I have my doubts for the moment. Producers in Bolgheri are also saying that 2011 may be some of their best reds ever. “The 2011 vintage will be the benchmark vintage for Ornellaia,” said Raspini, who hadn’t finished the blend of his top 2010s yet, so I couldn’t taste from barrel.

Click for notes:

2009 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 98 2009 Antinori Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso 97 2009 Le Macchiole Toscana Messorio 97 2009 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 96 2009 Ceralti Toscana Sonoro 95 2009 Orma Toscana 95 2009 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Toscana Masseto 95 2009 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana 95 2008 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Lodovico 95 2009 Donna Olimpia 1898 Bolgheri Millepassi 94 2009 Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore 94 2009 Poggio al Tesoro Bolgheri Superiore Sondraia 94 2008 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana 94 2009 Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore 93 2009 Ca' Marcanda Bolgheri Ca' Marcanda 93 2009 Campo al Mare Bolgheri Superiore Baia al Vento 93 2009 Casa di Terra Bolgheri Mosaico 93 2008 Castello del Terriccio Toscana 93 2009 Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore 93 2007 Donna Olimpia 1898 Bolgheri Superiore Millepassi 93 2009 GA Rossi de Medelana Toscana Lupicaia 93 2009 Le Macchiole Toscana Scrio 93 2009 Le Macchiole Toscana Paleo 93 2007 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Il Pino di Biserno 93 2007 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Lodovico 93 2008 Argentiera Toscana Giorgio Bartholomaus 92 2010 Argentiera Bolgheri Villa Donoratico 92 2010 Ca' Marcanda Toscana Magari 92 2010 Campo al Mare Bolgheri 92 2008 Campo alla Sughera Toscana 92 2010 Casa di Terra Bolgheri Moreccio 92 2009 Casa di Terra Toscana Poggio Querciolo 92 2009 Ceralti Toscana Alfeo 92 2007 Le Macchiole Toscana Paleo 92 2008 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Il Pino di Biserno 92 2010 Tenuta San Guido Toscana Guidalberto 92 2010 Antinori Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato 91 2010 Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Varvara 91 2009 Poggio al Tesoro Toscana Dedicato a Walter 91 2009 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove 91 2010 Argentiera Bolgheri Cecco Sodo 90 2010 Donna Olimpia 1898 Bolgheri 90 2007 Donna Olimpia 1898 Bolgheri 90 2009 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore 90 2010 Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 90 2010 Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Volpolo 90 2007 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana 90

Also tasted, but not receiving marks of 90 points or more:

2008 Aia Vecchia Bolgheri Superiore Sor Ugo 2010 Aia Vecchia Toscana Lagone 2010 Argentiera Bolgheri Poggio ai Ginepri 2010 Ca' Marcanda Toscana Promis 2010 Campo alla Sughera Bolgheri Adeo 2009 Campo alla Sughera Bolgheri Arnione 2008 Casa di Terra Bolgheri Maronea 2009 Castello del Terriccio Toscana Tassinaia 2010 Grattamacco Bolgheri Bolgheri 2009 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore L'Aberello 2010 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove 2010 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2009 Tenuta di Biserno Toscana Il Pino di Biserno 2010 Tenuta San Guido Toscana Le Difese