Tasting Report: Disappointing Rosso di Montalcino

World famous for its Brunellos, Montalcino's Rossos are still floundering

I am not a great fan of Rosso di Montalcino. The vast majority is so much lighter and less interesting when compared to Brunello di Montalcino, even if the wines come from the same winery.

Part of this is because most producers only use their best grapes to make Brunello. "Why waste them on Rosso di Montalcino,” they think to themselves, “especially when I can get two or three times the price if they go into a Brunello di Montalcino?"

However, I feel this shows bad will towards the consumer and anyone else who buys, sells and drinks both reds of Montalcino. Rosso di Montalcino needs to improve its quality.

For example, this summer I tasted around 30 Rosso di Montalcinos, and I only rated 11 with scores of 90 points or more. And most were from wineries that have consistently produced outstanding Rosso di Montalcinos including Siro Pacenti, Eredi Fuligni, Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, and Castello Banfi.

I have discussed my disappointment for years with Montalcino's best winemakers, but they have no solution. Of course, people like Giancarlo Pacenti say Rosso di Montalcino should be outstanding quality and made in a fresher style than Brunello as it is released much earlier. Unfortunately, Pacenti is one of the few who keeps his word on this.

Luckily, I tasted a few Brunello di Montalcinos this summer to compare. These were wines that I had not tasted earlier in the year for my report on 2008 Brunello di Montalcino and 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. One was an amazing, tiny release, magnum-only 2006 Brunello di Montacino Riserva called Zodaic from Castiglion del Bosco, and I gave it 97 points. The other two were a 94-pointer, late-release 2007 San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and a 2007 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino, which received 93 points.

Below you'll find all thirty Rossos tasted this summer along with the four extra Brunellos. Click here for all the other Brunello notes from earlier in the year.