Tasting Report: More Excellent Sicilian Wines (as well as Sardinia)

74 TASTING NOTES
Tuesday, Nov 20, 2012

Sicily has come a long way in the last decade in producing top class wines that emphasize the distinctive quality of its climates and soils, and this year’s release of wines from the island’s top wine producers is its best ever – particularly the wines from Etna.

Last summer, I tasted close to 200 wines from the island and I found a wonderful range of styles and flavors from rich yet subtle Nero d’Avolas to minerally and racy Chardonnays. I already discussed the greatness of wines from the volcanic growing region of Etna a few weeks ago in a tasting report. Click here to read the report.

Here in this report are more great Sicilian wines to consider.

I also included the wines from the Sardinian producer of Argiolas whose wonderful red, Turriga, has long been one of the most exciting Southern Italian reds. I tasted a number of different vintages. Agricola Punica is also included. Its owners are also makers of Tuscany’s legendary red Sassicaia. This is one to follow from Sardinia.

The 90 or so tasting notes in this report are those that were not published in the Etna review, although I have included the scores from before. For me, Etna is currently the most exciting growing region with Noto following a close second. The former is the best area for producing wines from mostly Nerello Mascalese while the later is tops for Nero d’Avola.

The Planeta family has vineyards all over Sicily. And they believe that Noto produces Nero’s d’Avolas with the most finesse and structure, giving them a top breeding. “Nero d’Avola from other parts of Sicily are often overly jammy and rustic,” admitted Alessio Planeta, during a visit earlier this year at his winery in Noto. “Here the climate is cooler, producing grapes with better acidities and more refined character.”

Indeed, Nero d’Avola is a grape in Sicily that has not yet reached its full potential for quality. And I think there is a big upside for Sicilian wineries with the grape. Another is the white grape Grillo, which can make wines in the same style as rich and minerally Viognier. We are only now seeing Grillos with finesse and length.

International grape types have long been excellent in Sicily. I prefer Syrah and Chardonnay compared to Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, for example. But some Bordeaux blends work from top producers such as Planeta and Tasca d’Almerita as well as Super Sicilian mixtures that combine local and international grape types.

These Super Sicilian blends are making some of the best wines for the money in Italy – particularly from wineries such as Cusumano. “It’s amazing that our area is so generous in enabling us to make such excellent wines with such excellent prices,” admitted Diego Cusumano. “Sometimes it even surprises me.”

 

Also tasted, but not receiving marks of 90 points or more:

2010 Baglio del Cristo di Campobello Sicilia Adenzia 2010 Baglio del Sole Merlot Syrah Sicilia  2010 Baglio del Sole Nero d'Avola Sicilia  2006 Baglio del Sole Sicilia Cembali 2007 Baglio di Pianetto Merlot-Nero d'Avola Sicilia Ramione 2010 Baglio di Pianetto Syrah-Merlot Sicilia Shymer NV Benanti Sicilia Noblesse Brut Metodo Classico 2011 Colosi Grillo Sicilia  2009 Colosi Nerello Mascalese Sicilia  2011 Colosi Sicilia  2007 Cottanera Sicilia L'Ardenza 2011 Cusumano Insolia Sicilia  2011 Cusumano Nero d'Avola Syrah Sicilia Benuara 2011 Donnafugata Nero d'Avola Sicilia Sherazade 2009 Feudi del Pisciotto Cerasuolo di Vittoria Giambattista Valli Paris 2009 Feudi del Pisciotto Merlot Sicilia Valentino 2010 Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Sicilia NM 2010 Feudo Principi di Butera Nero d'Avola Sicilia  2009 Firriato Sicilia L'Ecru Passito 2011 MandraRossa Nero d'Avola Cabernet Sauvignon Sicilia Bonera 2011 MandraRossa Sauvignon Blanc Sicilia Urra di Mare 2011 MandraRossa Sicilia Cavadiserpe 2010 Planeta Sicilia Plumbago 2011 Planeta Syrah Sicilia Previously tasted in the Etna report: 2010 Pietradolce Etna Vigna Barbarbagalli 99-100 2010 Terre Nere Etna Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino 97 2011 Girolamo Russo Etna San Lorenzo 95-96 2010 Girolamo Russo Etna San Lorenzo 95 2009 Pietradolce Etna Archineri 95 2010 Terre Nere Etna Calderara Sottana 95 2010 Graci Etna Quota 1000 94-95 2002 Benanti Etna Serra della Contessa 94 2010 Pietradolce Etna Archineri 94 2010 Terre Nere Etna Bianco Cuvee Delle Vigne Niche 94 2010 Terre Nere Etna Guardiola 94 2010 Terre Nere Etna Santo Spirito 94 2010 Biondi Sicilia CIsterna Fuori 93 2009 Cottanera Etna 93 2010 Cottanera Etna Barbazzale 93 2010 Girolamo Russo Etna Feudo 93 2010 Passopisciaro Sicilia 93 2010 Passopisciaro Sicilia Contrada P 93 2011 Pietradolce Etna Archineri 93 2009 Sasa Etna 93 2010 Tasca d'Almerita  Tascante 93 2010 Terre Nere Etna Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro delle Rose 93 2011 Terre Nere Etna Rosso 93 2010 Terre Nere Le Vigne di Eli Etna Moganazzi - Volta Sciara 93 2011 Graci Etna 92-93 2000 Benanti Etna Serra della Contessa 92 2008 Biondi Etna Outis 92 2011 Biondi Sicilia Chianta 92 2011 Cottanera Etna Barbazzale 92 2008 Cottanera Etna Etnarosso 92 2008 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Vajasindi Lavico Nerello Mascalese 92 2010 Girolamo Russo Etna a' Rina 92 2008 Girolamo Russo Etna San Lorenzo 92 2010 Graci Etna 92 2010 Graci Etna Quota 600 92 2010 Passopisciaro Sicilia Contrada R 92 2009 Pietro Caciorgna Etna Nanticchia 92 2011 Terre Nere Etna Rosato 92 2005 Benanti Etna Rovitttello 91 2004 Benanti Etna Serra della Contessa 91 2008 Biondi Etna MI 91 NV Frank Corelissen Etna Munjebel 8 91 2010 Graci Etna 91 2008 Pietradolce Etna Archineri 91 2010 Pietro Caciorgna Etna 91 2011 Planeta Sicilia Carricante 91 2009 Tasca d'Almerita Sicilia Tascante 91 2010 Benanti Etna Biancodicaselle 90 2005 Benanti Etna Il Monovitigno Nerello Mascalese 90 2006 Benanti Etna Serra della Contessa 90 2010 Biondi Etna Outis 90 2011 Cottanera Etna Etnabianco 90 2011 Cottanera Sicilia Barbazzale 90 2009 Cottanera Sicilia Fatagione 90 2008 Cottanera Sicilia Grammonte 90 2009 Cottanera Sicilia Sole di Sesta 90 2009 Feudo Vagliasindi Etna 90 2011 Graci Etna Etna Blanco 90 2011 Pietradolce Sicilia Rosato 90 2010 Scilio Etna Orpheus 90 2010 Tasca d'Almerita Sicilia Ghiaia Nera 90 2011 Tenuta di Fessina Sicilia Nerello Cappuccino 90 2011 Terre Nere Etna Bianco 90 2009 Wiegner Sicilia Treterre 90
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