Tasting Report: 300 Margaret River Wines Tasted

Late in 2015 James and I both took part in tastings, dinners and presentations at the Margaret River Gourmet Escape event in Western Australia. Whilst we were there we met with many of the local winemakers and took the opportunity to do a comprehensive tasting of the region’s wines. 

With nine consecutive vintages (2007 to 2015) that have delivered very good to great growing conditions, there is a wealth of great wine coming from this remote yet beautiful Australian wine region. The flagship Bordeaux-style wines, mostly cabernet-driven are in career-best form, there’s no question the best Australian cabernet-based wines are coming from here.

The last decade has seen viticultural refinement and improved vineyard management come into play, improving the consistency of these red wines, especially in the area of consistently ripe tannins. They have long been flavoursome, powerfully so, but the refined structure is a more recent quality.

More judicious and refined blending is also a feature of recent vintages, a move that has not only assisted in improving overall quality and consistency, but one that has also further articulated intra-regional differences and estate style as well as vineyard personality. These wines are more refined, polished and packed with greater interest than ever before.

Chardonnay is the other big star of Margaret River and presents an interesting quandary for lovers of the super lean, modern style of Australian chardonnay. There’s a civil war of sorts between the Yarra Valley and Margaret River chardonnay makers (although more vocal from the Yarra) as they slug it out with radically different styles, both very good. I’d wager the Margaret River winemakers really don’t care too much what others do, their chardonnays have been refined but are naturally bolder, more generous and undeniably full of enjoyment.

These are opulent, luscious, concentrated and textural wines and they are full of pleasure. Look at the old stalwart, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, one of the biggest white wines made in Australia (and one of the best performers in terms of cellaring) and you have 750ml of pure satisfaction. There are many others, Vasse Felix, Flametree SRS  (one of our top wines of 2015) to name a few, that reach impressive heights of combined power and focus.

Then there are the dry white Bordeaux-style blends of semillon and sauvignon blanc in either order. These work as simpler young fresh styles as well as complex, barrel-fermented, savory and complex styles – both underpinned by concentrated fruit and powerful acid structure.

In terms of producers, the members of the old guard are in fine form and continue to improve as experience and resources to enact change both combine effectively to maintain a leading role. 

But the really exciting thing about the region is the new wave, the questioning, capable and determined army of winemakers that are exploring previously unexplored varieties (Teroldego, Nebbiolo, Trousseau) and also making stylistic advances into the conservative territories of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and dry white blends.

These girls and guys are making some seriously great wines. Fresh eyes cast across this rugged coastal region are fuelling wines of impressive vitality, soulful appeal and high quality.

This is a region in full stride. Enjoy the reviews.

Photos from top to bottom: Nick tasting a range of wines from Margaret River; House of Cards Limited Release Ace of Spades 2013; Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay Margaret River 2012; James tasting a range of wines in Margaret River; Flametree Margaret River Wallcliffe Chardonnay SRS 2014

Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.