Tasting Report: Small is Beautiful in McLaren Vale

I just spent a week in South Australia’s beautiful McLaren Vale wine region filming a series of dinners that ran throughout the local wine show judging and, when you see these films, you’ll be booking your next wine tasting vacation in that direction. As far as wine regions go, it is stunning, located on the coast, flanked by hills; it always reminds me of Italy’s Bolgheri. 

The Mediterranean comparisons stretch to the wines as well and, whilst there’s an undisputed pedigree for the region’s shiraz and cabernet sauvignon wines, it is varieties like grenache, mourvèdre (known also as mataro in Australia), tempranillo and vermentino that are paving the way for the region’s next generation.

Before we kicked of the filming, I stopped in at the Vale Cru’s annual tasting up at the Victory Hotel. A casual opportunity to see a group of smaller winemakers all in one tasting, it was a great day with plenty of highlights and insights.

The Vale Cru is a collective of 15 smaller wine producers that have banded together for mainly promotional purposes and this brings together some real colour and personality, not to mention talent. They share like-minded values of hand production, minimal intervention, varietal integrity, sustainable practices and of course an unbridled pride and affection for their McLaren Vale region. 

They first got together in 2009, with the aim of introducing consumers to unique wines that illustrate the region’s diversity in variety, geology, technique, personality and sustainability. I found plenty of good and interesting wines that all show strong regional influence, as well as plenty of personality from the individuals and couples who make them. 

The Vale Cru

Bekkers Wines: the private label of viticulturalists Toby Bekkers. Claims the title of most expensive wine of the group at AUD$110!

Brash Higgins: Brad Hickey’s eclectic, innovative and smartly delivered wine are among the highlights of the group.

Five Geese Wines: Longtime Blewitt Springs grower Sue Trott’s label which launched in 1998.

Inkwell Wines: the collaboration of Dudley Brown and Irina Santiago-Brown making wines that ooze gently evolved regional authenticity.

J&J Vineyards: an organically farmed vineyard with a distinct maritime influence, best known for their shiraz wines.

La Curio: Adam Hooper makes mostly reds that have a boldly assertive style, drawing on low-yielding fruit for intense flavours.

Lazy Balerina: James Hook and Miriam Bourne’s project that is squarely focused on shiraz as their signature style.

Ministry of Clouds: a new project of wine marketers Julian Forwood and Bernice Ong who have made a great debut in just 2012.

Rudderless Wines: Doug Govan is best known as the publican of the Victory Hotel. His vineyard up behind the pub is producing some terrific wines.

Rusty Mutt: award-winning winemaker Scott Heidrich’s own label that focuses on Rhône varieties.

Ulithorne: winemaker Rose Kentish leads a double life making wine in France, where she makes wines on Corsica and in Provence, as well as the Vale.

Samuel’s Gorge: winemaker Justin McNamee operates one of the region’s best cellar door experiences. Deep, bold and forthright reds are his specialty. 

Vigna Bottin: Paolo and Maria Bottin’s small project celebrates Italian heritage with highlights being sangiovese and a much-awarded vermentino.

Waywood Wines: Andrew Wood and Lisa Robertson make an engaging range of Mediterranean-inspired wines alongside your more classical varieties.

Wistmose Wines: Steve and Sadie Gomer’s small project focuses on grenache and shiraz made in an honest, pared back style. (Second photo by Angela Lisman.)

Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.