Tasting Report: The Best Rosé in the World?

Chateau d'Esclans in France's Côtes de Provence arguably makes the greatest rosé in the world. I think that Domaine Ott, also from the same area, comes very close in quality, and so does Domaine Tempier from Bandol. Yet d'Esclans has to be the chosen rosé for many in the Côte d'Azur, whether they’re drinking the wine on the beach in St. Tropez or on a boat off of Cannes. And I think they’re right.

It's the brainchild of Sacha Lichine, the son of the late wine author Alexis Lichine, with whom I spent my early years tasting and who taught me much about wine. Sacha is a 50ish vintner with a heart and palate of gold. He uses the former winemaker of Bordeaux first growth Chateau Mouton-Rothschild as a consultant for his project. He bought the estate in 2006. It has close to 300 hectares.

All the rosés are a blend of black grapes including Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren as well as white Rolle (Vermentino). The grapes are harvested, crushed and fermented together.

His entry-level rosé is made from purchased grapes, which is why it is called Whispering Angel and not Chateau d'Esclans. It's a very high quality rosé, and very popular in bar scenes, especially in Hong Kong – it gives Cloudy Bay a run for its money.

Chateau d'Esclans makes three estate rosés. The differences in quality are mostly according to the age of the vines – the older the Grenache, the better. In addition, the top cuvees are almost entirely fermented in 600-liter French oak casks, and aged for about 10 months. The top wines can cost close to $90 a bottle while Whispering Angel prices at around $20.

Don't miss the various videos on the estate to better understand this extra special rosé.

Here are my tasting notes for various wines and vintages tasted over the last year.