Tasting Report: Waiheke Island

Whilst in Auckland last week I decided to jump on the ferry and take the short, 30-minute ride across to one of the most fascinating New Zealand wine regions: Waiheke Island. The ride across is terrific – you pull out of the busy Auckland Harbour, leave the city behind and wind your way out between a group of small islands to arrive in Waiheke’s small Matiatia Bay. 

Waiheke is a warm, dry island known for its ability to dodge the bad weather. When I left Auckland in the morning, the city was bathed in sun. I sat out in the glorious sunshine on Waiheke Island later that the day watching the city all but disappear under dark clouds and intense rainfall. Yet the island stayed dry.

The wines that have made Waiheke famous are the Bordeaux-style blends, and there are plenty of great examples coming from the 25-odd producers. Syrah is a rising star, and the ability to achieve convincing flavors and phenological ripeness with an exotic, spicy, peppery edge is a great combination, too. I was also excited about a few lesser-planted reds, namely tempranillo, malbec and montepulciano.

And whilst there’s a contemporary edge to many of the best-quality reds, the whites –in particular Chardonnay – are positioned in a bigger, richer and slightly retro style. Overtly buttery malolactic characters, big ripe flavors and alcohols regularly running up and over 14% are not found in too many corners of the world. It will be interesting to see if anyone breaks out and goes after a more taut, modern-chardonnay style.

The 2013 vintage is one of the best in the last decade – on a par with the outstanding 2010 – and many of the best reds in the tasting came from these two great vintages.

Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.