Tasting Report: Wines of Etna

Etna is one of the most fascinating wine areas I have ever visited in my life. Walking among the thick ancient vines on the lava slopes of the volcano of Etna in southern Sicily makes you feel like you are in a lost world – but this is for real, and not a movie set! The wines, which are made mostly of the local grape called Nerello Mascalese, remind me of tasting pre-phylloxera Burgundies. Of course, I have not tasted many of those, but the Etna reds have a unique floral, dried rose petal aroma and flavor besides the usual strawberry fruit character. One can certainly draw comparisons to Burgundy with Etna reds in terms of structure since they can be dense yet delicate and refined with ultra-fine tannins and fresh acidity. I like them young and with age.

I also like the whites and the roses. So don't miss out on them.

I walked the Etna vineyards with Italian wine exporter Marco de Grazia a couple of years ago. And I can't wait to go back. Marco, an Italian American, is the top winemaker in the region in my opinion. His winery, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, produces wines with genuine character and style. Try to get your hands on his wine made from ungrafted vines: 2009 Terre Nere Etna Prephylloxera - La Vigna di Don Peppino. It was the best wine of my tasting at 96 points. Other producers I am impressed with include Pietradolce, Passopisciaro, Calabretta, and Cottanera.

I think that 2009 is an excellent vintage, although 2008 and 2007 are not far behind. Please try one and let me know how you like the reds of Enta.

Also tasted, but not receiving marks of 90 points or more:

2009 Girolamo Russo Etna 'a Rina