Our Australian Wine of the Year for 2024, the Stefano Lubiana La Roccia Pinot Noir 2022, is testament to the consistency and quality emerging from the southern island state of Tasmania and epitomizes the future of Australian pinot noir. This sophisticated, pure and complete wine shows poise and structure, with a wholesome roundness and aromatic lift that exemplifies what is possible from Australia's premier cool-climate wine region.

Likewise, this year’s Top 100 Wines of Australia highlights the steady evolution of the country's top offerings, which continue to impress with their elegance, balance and regional character. Despite the challenges brought by La Niña weather patttern over the past three years, with unpredictable growing conditions in southeastern Australia, the country's vintages have shown resilience and refinement.

We tasted more than 2,200 Australian wines during our comprehensive travels there over the course of six months this year, with James and the team immersing themselves in the vineyards and cellars of this vast, diverse continent.  Our Top 100 list ranks them on the basis of quality, availability, price and their "wow" factor. A quarter of the wines that made this year’s list can be found for under $40. This is especially true for riesling, with one great example being the Frankland Estate Riesling Frankland River Isolation Ridge 2022, which ranks as our No. 3 Australian wine and costs just $32.

Fifty of the wines on this list are reds and 45 are whites, and they are joined by two sparkling wines, one fortified and one dessert. Forty-one are from the state of Victoria, 30 from South Australia, 16 from Western Australia, 10 from Tasmania and three from New South Wales.

Pinot noir featured strongly in the top 25 this year, with four exceptional, world-class examples. Outside our No. 1 wine, the other three are the Bindi Pinot Noir Macedon Ranges Original Vineyard 2023 (No. 6), Yabby Lake Pinot Noir Coal River Valley Single Vineyard 2023 (No. 21) and Chatto Pinot Noir Huon Valley Isle 2023 (No. 22). Each displays a high level of sophistication representing both the character of the region and the site upon which they were grown.

Alongside pinot noir, Australian chardonnay continues its rise on the international stage and on this list, but there has been a notable change from the fuller, opulent styles of the past to leaner, more refined expressions with a focus on minerality and reduction. This evolution has been shaped by two renowned producers whose contributions have been pivotal to boosting chardonnay's profile in the country.

Few names are as synonymous with excellence as Vanya Cullen. The Cullen Chardonnay Margaret River Kevin John 2023 (No. 37) is a testament to her relentless pursuit of perfection, delivering a classic, pure wine. This release shows a slight phenolic grip that adds texture to the mid-palate, balanced by a focused, tight acidity that brings freshness and energy.

And no conversation about Australian chardonnay is complete without acknowledging the Kinzbrunner family and their renowned Giaconda Estate. The Giaconda Chardonnay Beechworth Estate Vineyard 2022 stands as an Australian benchmark, earning the No. 12 spot on this list. It is mineral- and saline-driven, with expressive stone fruit aromas, vibrant high-tension acidity, a generous mouthfeel and a finish of remarkable length and elegance.

Other notable chardonnays in the top 20 include the Tolpuddle Chardonnay Tasmania 2023 (No. 32), the refined and precise Shaw + Smith Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Lenswood Vineyard 2022 (No. 34), and the Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series 2021 (No. 39). Each showcases the diversity and qualitative potential of Australian winemaking at its finest.

THE ENDURING LEGACY OF SHIRAZ

The history of Australian wine is inseparable from shiraz (syrah), a variety that has become synonymous with the nation’s winemaking identity. Australia has the world’s oldest shiraz plantings, yielding some extraordinary wines from historical vineyards.

In New South Wales, Tyrrell’s has been a cornerstone of Australian viticulture since its founding in 1858. Today, fifth-generation winemaker Chris Tyrrell crafts the Tyrrell’s Shiraz Hunter Valley Old Patch 2023, our No. 2 Australian wine. Sourced from a family vineyard established in 1867, this wine reflects the vineyard’s heritage with subtle yet intense old-vine characteristics. Medium-bodied and seamlessly integrated, its tannins have melted into the wine, creating a harmonious and elegant expression.

The old-vine story and family heritage are equally strong when it comes to the wines of South Australia. Dan Standish, a sixth-generation Barossan, makes The Standish Wine Company Barossa Valley The Relic 2022 (No. 5) from grapes sourced from old, ungrafted vines planted in 1912, delivering rich, textured flavors and a distinctive expression of Barossa terroir.

Fraser McKinley of Sami-Odi also sources grapes from 1912 plantings but takes a fresh approach to shiraz. A New Zealander by birth, McKinley focuses on small-batch production and early harvesting to craft wines with elegance, balance and vibrant acidity. His Sami-Odi Shiraz Barossa Valley Hoffmann Dallwitz 2023, ranked 10th this year, is a striking example. Perfumed and linear on the nose, the wine delivers a lively freshness and brooding complexity that promises to evolve beautifully with age.

These wines underscore the enduring legacy of shiraz in Australia, blending tradition with modern innovation to redefine the varietal on a global stage.

For riesling, key regions like Clare Valley and Eden Valley lead the way, producing crisp and aromatic expressions like the No. 23 Grosset Riesling Clare Valley G110 2023. Jeffrey Grosset, a pioneering winemaker in Clare Valley, made this wine from the premium single-clone G110, with the vintage expressing aromatic notes of lime, green apple and subtle spice, paired with a tightly structured, high-tension palate.

Representing Eden Valley is John Hughes, who is so dedicated to crafting world-class rieslings (along with his wife, Belinda) that he has acquired the nickname,"Riesling Freak.” Coming in at No. 8 this year and priced at only $15, his Rieslingfreak Riesling Eden Valley No. 4 2024 has aromas of lemon pith, grapefruit rind, slate and fresh herbs, accompanied by a laser-focused palate with an underlying mineral tension. The level of finesse and refinement in this wine is incredible.

Australian producers exploring lesser-known European varieties include Barry and Jan Morey of Sorrenberg Wines, who have been crafting gamay with precision and care since their first release in 1989.The Sorrenberg Gamay Beechworth 2023 is a standout from a cooler harvest, earning its place at No. 61 this year. This biodynamic gem opens with layers of red fruit, dried rose petals, earth, and graphite on the nose. The high-tension palate has focused acidity and fine tannins, with notes of blackberries, cassia bark and spices. This is a true testament to the Moreys’ dedication to small-scale, high-quality winemaking.

Furthering the exploration of alternate, cool climate varieties is Damon Koerner of Koerner wines, whose passion for the Jura region of France compelled him to plant savignan in the Adelaide Hills region of South Australia. Koerner is making savignan in a focused, dry and non-oxidized style that has real purity and freshness. His Koerner Savagnin Adelaide Hills Deanery Vineyard 2023 (No. 25) is compelling and mineral-driven, and the palate is cut through with a laser-like acidity to give the wine a wonderfully balanced finish with high tension, energy and purity.

And the quintessential Australian tradition of enjoying a fine glass of fortified wine lives on in our Top 100. The Rutherglen region of Victoria is world-renowned for its exceptional fortified wines, particularly muscat and topaque (tokay), where generational expertise dates back as far as the old backstock. Look at the Brown family’s All Saints Estate, for example, which ages and blends wines with some of the oldest backstock in the country.

The All Saints Estate Muscat Rutherglen Rare (No. 9) gives off intense aromas of apple tart, dates, caramelized figs, burnt oranges and creme brulee. The palate is full-bodied and intensely sweet, with nice acidity. This is a truly exceptional fortified wine made from an average base age of 50 years. There is always a place on the table for Rutherglen fortified – particularly at the end of a meal!

This year’s tasting journey across Australia extended beyond the classics – those iconic shiraz, chardonnay and riesling wines that define Australia’s global reputation – to uncover many new, exciting and unique offerings. From emerging producers and alternative varieties to off-the-beaten-path vineyards with a profound sense of place, this Top 100 list showcases the extraordinary diversity to be found among the finest examples of Australian wine.

– Ryan Montgomery, Associate Editor

Note: The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated in 2024 by the tasters at JamesSuckling.com. You can sort the wines by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.