Chinese wine has undergone a remarkable transformation in a short period of time. Five years since releasing our first Top 100 Wines of China 100 report – and after tasting another 500 bottles this year – the progress has been unmistakable. A decade ago, China’s reputation for fine wine was tentative at best; now its leading producers are releasing bottles that stand comfortably alongside established global benchmarks. That shift was clear at several events in Hong Kong this year, from the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival to a comparative tasting at James Suckling Wine Central, where Chinese wines held their own against international icons.
In a year full of remarkable Chinese wines, a couple of high-elevation chardonnays from Yunnan – the Mingyi Yunnan Above the Creek 酩一桃溪之上干白葡萄酒 2022 and Clos Mao Shangri-La Light 茂园理光干白 2023 – really took it to the extremes of high quality coming out of the mainland. However, with production limited to around 1,000 bottles each, they weren’t serious contenders for our Chinese Wine of the Year. Don’t forget – our Top 100 lists weigh not just quality and character, as measured by their scores, but also value and availability. This year, we also capped selections to a maximum of two wines per winery so we could better spotlight new producers and wines.
Although our Chinese Wine of the Year, the Xige Estate Cabernet Gernischt Ningxia Jade Dove Single Vineyard 西鸽酒庄玉鸽单一园蛇龙珠2021, doesn’t boast a cult following like the two Yunnan chardonnays, it does disprove the notion that Chinese wines are mostly overpriced, unavailable and lack character and originality. With around 90,000 bottles made and a retail price of about US$66, it's both easy to find and affordable.














