We spent nearly three weeks exploring Portugal’s wine regions earlier this year, discovering the country’s remarkable diversity and distinct regional personalities. In each region, the unique confluence of climate, topography and rich varietal heritage makes for a wide range of wines that appeal for their drinkability, distinctiveness and value.

One wine, however, stood above all the others we tasted. The Antonio Madeira Dâo Vinhas Velhas Branco 2022, a white blend from the picturesque Dao region of Portugal, is our Portuguese Wine of the Year. Its distinct character – think of a cross between Meursault and Jura – is the result of the blending of an astounding 20 different varieties, with 75 percent of the wine comprised of siria, fernao pires, bical, encruzado, malvasia fina, arinto and cerceal.

The grapes for this exceptional wine are sourced from 15 distinct parcels, with the vines ranging in age from 50 to 130 years. These vineyards are primarily co-planted on degraded granite soils across six villages in the Serra de Estrela subregion of the Dao, which is celebrated for its elegant, silky reds and textural yet fresh whites.

The 2022 vintage in Portugal was one of the hottest and driest on record since 1931, with temperatures rising above 34 degrees Celsius (93.2 Fahrenheit) for 28 consecutive days, including 11 days that surpassed 40 Celsius. Antonio Madeira, the owner and winemaker of the eponymous estate, said the Branco 2022 "fermented very well” despite the heat of the year.

Madeira follows biodynamic principles and practices In his vineyards and employs a traditional method of plowing with three horses. His team of six employees work in eight hectares of vineyards, reflecting a similar labor-to-land ratio found at renowned estates like Romanee-Conti in Burgundy or Dagueneau in the Loire Valley.

The Branco 2022 ferments and ages in 500- to 600-liter barrels, with a tiny portion in stainless steel for two winters. It only sees a small addition of sulfur during bottling and undergoes malolactic fermentation. This is a very transparent and very pure wine – both aromatically and texturally. It is layered and substantial but with overwhelming brightness and visceral energy, leaving you simply thinking, "Wow!" I have been following this wine for some time, and it consistently delivers both exceptional quality and value – about $35, according to Wine-Searcher, with 7,000 bottles made. These factors – quality, value, availability and the  “wow” factor – are how we determine our Top 100 wines for each country

Our No. 2 wine is a red from Bairrada, crafted by the husband-and-wife team of Filipa Pato and William Wouters. The Filipa Pato & William Wouters Baga Bairrada Nossa Calcário Vinhas Velhas 2022 comes from three plots of century-plus-old Baga vines, planted on clay-limestone soils. Their vineyards are also worked according to biodynamic principles and are Demeter-certified.

Baga is a variety known for its ability to produce intimidating tannins. Despite its thin skins, it possesses a high phenolic content, traditionally leading to astringent, tannic wines that require significant aging. However, through refined extraction techniques, including partial destemming and careful punch-downs (breaking up the layer of skins, stems and seeds at the top of fermenting wine) Pato and Wouters have created a wine that epitomizes balance, harmonizing old-vine concentration, chalky yet polished tannins and an energetic brightness. In 2022, approximately 4,600 bottles of this exceptional wine were produced, and it’s also a great value at just $35.

Other notable wines from Bairrada include the sophisticated Quinta de Baixo Bairrada Garrafeira Poerinho 2015 (No. 12) and V. Puro Baga Bairrada Outrora 2019 (No. 25). The region is also acclaimed for its exceptional whites, including the Quinta das Bágeiras Bairrada Branco Pai Abel 2022 (No. 6). This blend of bical and maria gomes grapes showcases a perfect balance between the region's vibrant character and the substantial approach of owner and winemaker Mario Sergio.

Despite the intense heat of 2022, the vintage also produced some remarkable Ports. The renowned Portuguese producer Dirk van der Niepoort said that while the extreme conditions of the year set the stage for a promising Port vintage, they also risked producing excessively concentrated wines. Fortunately, a light rain that lingered for several days at the beginning of September helped to moderate this concentration and transform the character of the wines, as it did with the Niepoort Vintage Port 2022 (No. 3).

This is a Port with brilliant, nearly symmetrical harmony alongside vibrant fruit and impressive concentration. It’s big, fibrous tannic structure creates an overall sense of balance that positions it as one of the most compelling vintage Ports in this report. And priced at about $95, it represents excellent value.

WHITE WINE NIRVANA

Overall, this list is dominated by white wines, with 40 entries (red wines comprise 35 bottles, and fortified wines, 25). From the pure and crystalline expressions found in Antonio Madeira’s Dao offerings to the well-structured, Rabigato-based blends like the Niepoort Douro Branco Coche 2022 (No. 14), this list is a showcase for the country’s premier whites.

In the Minho region, particularly in Moncao and Melgaco, radiant alvarinhos can be found that are rounder and gentler than their counterparts from Spain’s Rias Baixas, yet share a similarly irresistible saline thread. Coming in at No. 5, the Luis Seabra Alvarinho Vinho Verde Monção e Melgaço Granito Cru 2022 stands out as a unique example. This wine undergoes malolactic fermentation with a low addition of sulfur, resulting in a subtle oxidative style that, when combined with its sharpness, creates a captivating interpretation.

Additionally, Anselmo Mendes, the a pioneering figure in the region who is affectionately known as "Mr. Alvarinho,” crafts the Anselmo Mendes Parcela Única 2023 (No. 20), which is also worth seeking out and is widely available.

Also noteworthy is loureiro, a variety that is often overshadowed by the more ubiquitous alvarinho. Originating from the southern Val de Lima, loureiro can produce beautifully aromatic and texturally precise whites. The waxy Márcio Lopes Loureiro Vinho Verde Pequeños Rebentos Vinhas Velhas 2022 (No. 21) is a complex and seductive example made from an old vineyard and aged in barrel that is worth seeking out.

The Dao region makes a significant impact in this report, with the Quinta da Pellada Dão Muleta 2020 at No. 4 and standing out as a classic wine. Crafted by the legendary producer Alvaro Castro and winemaker/enologist Aydogan Cift, it is sourced from an extremely old vineyard that is co-planted with a variety of grapes, predominantly baga and jaen. These wines are noted for their silky texture and subtle structure, appealing to those who appreciate elegance.

Other noteworthy entries from the Dao include the Mira do Ó Encruzado Dão Branco Grande Druida 2022 (No. 8) and Mariana Salvador Dão Branco Revela 2022, (No. 15).

Fortified wines, encompassing Madeira and Port, represent an integral part of Portugal's cultural wine fabric. Several aged tawnies on this list are particularly notable, offering a compelling combination of concentrated acidity and oxidative notes developed through long aging.

Many of these exceptional wines, though, are released in extremely limited quantities and often come with a hefty price tag. Nevertheless, there are aged tawnies that still offer exceptional value, such as the Real Companhia Velha Port Royal Oporto 20 Years Old Tawny NV (No. 73) and the Ferreira Port 30 Year Old Tawny Dona Antónia NV (No. 35), and they help form the terrific mosaic of the country's winescape.

– Jacobo García Andrade, Associate Editor

Note: The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated in 2024 by the tasters at JamesSuckling.com. You can sort the wines by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.