Nick's Article: Wendouree – Australia’s Greatest Terroir
The aura of sacredness and rarity surrounding Wendouree’s wines is something that very few wineries, anywhere, can lay claim to. The ancient plantings, the discreet location tucked in an oasis-like location in South Australia’s Clare Valley, the bold traditional typeface of the labels – many things combine to make the legend what it is.
But the character of the wines is what really makes this small estate one of the greatest, most elusive and highly collectible producers of full-bodied red wine. And, for many, this is where the challenge comes because these are wines unlike any others. They have carved out their own genre, they are self-defining and stylistic comparisons are always difficult, often pointless.
They are also some of the most cryptic wines I have ever tasted. Having followed them over the last two decades, these are the vinous equivalent of the long-term relationship. A one-night stand is a folly – these are soul mates and demand commitment and time.
Their graceful ageing is something that winemakers respect and envy; their ability to bury complexity deep, to sustain over time and to deliver structure with 4-wheel-drive tannins that drive slow, steady and deliberate across the palate. The haunting depth of old vines and the distinct, eucalypt-tinged aromas are striking. The unfettered, unadorned and raw honesty of their style is something that few vignerons can execute, let alone summon the courage to try.
The purity seen in the 2012 vintage is also rare in the scheme of things, as is evidenced across the five wines I recently tasted. It is also rare that these wines should seem so candid at such a young age, still reserved, but very clear in terms of precision, structure, balance and brightness. Sure, the 2012 vintage is a great one (and I suspect far greater than many are yet aware of), but this merely underwrites the profound quality of these wines, their elite provenance and the strength of their character.
These are, without a shadow of a doubt, Australia’s greatest “terroir” wines.
Click for notes and scores.
2012 Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon
2012 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec
Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
