A Peak for Hill of Grace, Reinvention in the Rheingau and California’s Wine Troubadour: Weekly Tasting Report

The 2021 release of Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz is here, and Stephen Henschke describes it as one of the finest wines to emerge from the historical vineyard. Associate Editor Ryan Montgomery met with Stephen, his wife, Prue, and their daughter, Justine, to walk through the Hill of Grace Vineyard and tour the cellars during the ongoing 2025 harvest, discussing what makes the 2021 vintage distinctive.

The Hill of Grace site includes original own-rooted vines planted in 1860, along with additional plantings from the 1950s, now totaling eight hectares. But vine age alone doesn’t account for the wine’s character – it is the result of careful vineyard management and consistent farming practices.

Prue Henschke, who oversees the vineyards, explained that her approach includes applying organic compost to retain soil moisture and support microbial activity, planting native species to attract beneficial insects, using the Scott Henry trellis system, and incorporating biodynamic methods. She noted these practices have particularly helped maintain the health and balance of the vines over time.

One of the most measurable viticultural practices contributing to wine quality at Henschke is the use of the Scott Henry trellis system. This method plays a key role in maintaining vine balance, controlling vigor and supporting tannin development. Prue explained to Ryan that the system helps create "dappled light" in the fruit zone, rather than exposing grape bunches to direct sunlight.

This moderated light exposure has been linked to increased levels of tannin development in the fruit, particularly quercetin,  which interacts with other tannins and results in the formation of longer tannin chains, which are softer, more complex tannin structures. This aspect of tannin development was especially evident in the 2021 growing season in the Eden Valley, with Stephen Henschke describing the conditions as “near perfect,” allowing for optimal tannin and sugar development.

The quality of the 2021 Hill of Grace Shiraz reflects these conditions. Ryan noted its freshness and refinement, with layered aromas of dark plums, mocha, graphite, five spice, and cured meat. On the palate, the wine shows clarity and balance, with integrated acidity, smooth tannins and creamy texture.

Reinvention in the Rheingau

Senior Editor Stuart Pigott was once again on the road in the Rheingau in Germany over the past week. His tastings confirmed that what was once Germany’s most famous wine region has been making steady progress in rebuilding its reputation for excellence.

An essential aspect of this process is recapturing the renown of what were long among the most famous vineyard sites in Germany. For Desiree Eser and her husband, Dodo zu Knyphausen, at the August Eser winery in Oestrich-Winkel, that means the Wisselbrunnen and Nussbrunnen sites in neighboring Hattenheim. And with the 2023 vintage they produced the winery’s best wines from these sites in many years.

The August Eser Riesling Rheingau Wisselbrunnen GG 2023 is elegant and racy with aromas of white peach and dried flowers plus stony minerality, while the August Eser Riesling Rheingau Nussbrunnen GG 2023 is more structured with great drive at the compact and tightly wound finish. What a contrast for neighboring vineyard sites!

Another aspect of the Rheingau’s reinvention is sekt, or sparkling wine, and this may well turn out to be the most important new card Germany is currently playing.  In the Rheingau, Mark Barth of the Barth winery in Hattenheim is the region’s leading producer due to the combination of excellent quality right through his wide range and the good total quantity he produces.

The most astonishing sparkling wine Barth produces is the Barth Riesling Sekt Rheingau Hassel Brut Nature 2017, which has aromas of oolong and Darjeeling tea and a whole dimension more complexity than is normal for this category. There’s an almost perfect balance of super-fine mousse and subtle creaminess at the fabulous finish, something very rare for this category. The pure pinot noir Barth Sekt Rheingau Ultra Brut Nature 2018 has a much more champagne-like personality. The combination of steely precision with delicate wild berry and brioche aromas is compelling.

Austrian Masterpieces

Although the ascent of Austria’s reputation during the 21st century was nearly all driven by dry white wines, it continues to produce some truly remarkable dessert wines, and Stuart just tasted a couple of masterpieces from the Proidl winery in the Kremstal region.

The Proidl Grüner Veltliner Niederösterreich Senftenberger Trockenbeerenauslese 2015 is a very rare example of a sensational sweet wine from Austria’s signature grape variety. It has a stunning concentration of candied citrus, pear tart satin and toasted brioche aromas, plus a pine and mint freshness. The vitality of the finish is very impressive given the moderate acidity.

Stuart was even more impressed by the more crystaline Proidl Riesling Niederösterreich Senftenberger Trockenbeerenauslese 2015. The cornucopia of candied orange and floral honey with pink grapefruit freshness is breathtaking Both these limited production wines are new releases!

The main focus of Patrick Proidl, the winemaker and owner, is dry whites from the riesling and gruner veltliner grapes. The Proidl Grüner Veltliner Niederösterreich Generation X 2023 is like a cloud of delicately spicy and ripe citrus aromas. It is so poised and precise on the super-silky palate that it feels almost ethereal.

The majority of gruner veltliner vineyards are in Austria where the grape originates, and most of the rest is grown in Central and Eastern Europe. However, it also grows in America, both on the West Coast and in the northeastern corner of Pennsylvania.

Galen Glen in Pennsylvania was the first producer to plant the vine east of the Rocky Mountains in 2003, and the Galen Glen Grüner Veltliner Lehigh Valley Stone Cellar 2023 is well-structured and concentrated with aromas of peach, Amalfi lemon, anise and flint. Stuart loved the driving wet-stone finish.

Winemaker Sarah Troxell described the 2023 growing season as, “a battle of earth, wine and fire … it brought every challenge nature could throw with plenty of drama along the way.” Extreme spring heat was followed by a narrow escape from late frost damage, followed by a cool summer, smoke from Canadian wildfires, then a rainy harvest. The results show what can be achieved by continuously adapting vineyard management techniques and great determination.

California's Wine Troubadour

The top-rated California wines this week come almost exclusively from Sonoma County, where structured cabernet sauvignons from Aperture Cellars and the Laurel Glen estate contrasted with refined pinot noirs from Bob Cabral Wines.

Cabral has worked with Burgundy grape varieties in the Russian River Valley for virtually his whole, lengthy career, having been a winemaker for Three Sticks and Williams-Selyem as well as working for Hartford Court, DeLoach and others. Wines from his self-named brand made a big impression on Executive Editor Jim Gordon in a tasting at the newly restored Paradise Ridge winery near Santa Rosa, one of the victims of the 2017 wildfires.

The Bob Cabral Pinot Noir Sonoma County Russian River Valley Cuvée Troubadour 2021 is from a drought year with light yields and shows slightly more concentration, energy and depth than some of Cabral’s 2022 pinots, but we’re splitting hairs. It overflows with black cherry, black tea, dried blueberry, forest floor and mushroom nuances.

The man celebrates a latter-day counterculture vibe with psychedelic posters and rock-n-roll memorabilia decorating his tasting studio on the expansive Pararadise Ridge property. So the music-themed names of his wines are right in sync. His Pinot Noir Sonoma County Russian River Valley Cuvée Electric Hippy 2022 is super distinctive in black fruits and a spiciness from 35 percent whole clusters.

However, the Bob Cabral Chardonnay Sonoma County Sonoma Coast Cuvée Anne Rose 2021 is named for his wife and is not a rosé. It offers an exceptionally expansive palate that is nicely countered by taut minerality and tangy acidity at a pH under 3.3.

At Aperture Cellars, founder Jesse Katz and his winemaker, Hillary Sjolund, make more wines than Jim could taste in three hours at their contemporary winery and hospitality space just outside Healdsburg. Included below are 11 of them that scored 95 and above from different brands in the portfolio.

Most are grown in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley, including the Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Alexander Valley Site Specific Del Rio 2022, which shows a fantastic personality combining roses, potpourri and savory wild herb flavors. But they use some Napa grapes, too. The opulent, indulgent The Setting Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Coombsville Glass Slipper Vineyard 2022 is a great example.

Jim also visited the Laurel Glen estate on Sonoma Mountain, a cabernet sauvignon specialist that’s approaching its 45th harvest. Two current releases and a library wine from 2013 showed vividly how savory, complex and well-balanced their estate grown wines are, echoing his impressions from 40 years ago tasting some of the first releases.

The most concentrated, structured and ageworthy of their 100 percent cabernet sauvignon estate-grown wines is the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Sonoma Mountain Block Series Lot 51 2019, and their Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Sonoma Mountain Estate 2021 is especially on-point, packing in dark fruit, orange zest and dark chocolate flavors. Randall Watkins is in charge of winemaking.

Managing partner Bettina Sichel comes from a long line of German winemakers, so naturally she makes a riesling, too. The Laurel Glen Riesling San Benito County Wirz Vineyard P.S. 2023 honors her father, Peter Sichel, a well-respected German-American vintner who popularized Blue Nun imported wines a generation ago.

READ MORE WASHINGTON 2025 TASTING REPORT: WINEMAKING WITHOUT COMPROMISE

Resilient Roussillon 

Tasting through recent releases from the Roussillon region of France revealed three standout wines – each with a distinct character, shaped by the increasingly harsh conditions facing the region. While much of France endured a cool, wet 2024 vintage marked by mildew, frost and low yields, Roussillon experienced the opposite: an intense, persistent drought.

“2024 in Roussillon felt more like Marrakesh than southern France,” Jean-Marc Lafage of Domaine Lafage told Tasting Manager Kevin Davy during his visit to our Hong Kong office. The drought of that year was born of a dramatic shift in climate, with maritime rains from the Mediterranean all but disappearing, accelerating desertification in the area. But many producers, including Lafage, used the crisis as a catalyst for innovation and long-term thinking. “This isn’t new to us,” Lafage said. “We’ve been working with these conditions for several vintages now.”

Lafage uses regenerative practices in one of his vineyards, employing an underground irrigation system to conserve water.  The wine from the vineyard, the Domaine Lafage Côtes Catalanes Moutou 2023, is a grenache-dominant blend with a touch of syrah, is vivid, silky, and refreshingly light at just 13.5 percent alcohol. Harvested early on Aug. 8, it reflects a low-intervention approach focused purely on fruit and juice quality.

In the higher-altitude Les Aspres area, Lafage has turned to ancient techniques to reshape the land. Terracing was reintroduced to retain and manage scarce rainfall. “The terraces slow the water flow, and we added side channels to redirect it across levels,” Lafage explained. It’s a sustainable, low-tech solution in contrast to widespread water extraction.

Their impressive wine from the site, the Domaine Lafage Maury Sec Miraille 2022, is from a zone historically known for fortified wines. This dry blend of grenache and mourvèdre is dense, structured, and built for aging – a powerful example of adaptation and resilience in one of France’s most climate-challenged regions.

– Ryan Montgomery, Stuart Pigott, Jim Gordon and Kevin Davy contributed reporting.

The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated during the past week by James Suckling and the other tasters at JamesSuckling.com. They include many latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. Some will be included in upcoming tasting reports.

Note: You can sort the wines below by country, vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.