Clinet 1989 vs. Redigaffi 1999 & Redigaffi 1997

Blind tasting is definitely a well-established sport in Hong Kong with wine collectors, and my friends seldom spare me the task. But I don't mind. It's a fascinating way to discover new wines and re-acquaint one’s self with already tasted bottles.

Take for example a couple of nights ago in Kowloon at the Italian restaurant Sabatini: A friend brought three Merlots and he wanted to know my thoughts on their quality.

"One wine you gave 100 points," he said, with a wicked smile. "Another, Parker gave 100 points."

I tasted the three wines and the last one was obviously Bordeaux. The other two seemed to be Tuscan. The Bordeaux was balanced and refined with a plum and cedar character with dried flowers. It was balanced and perfect for drinking. The two Tuscan Merlots were much darker in color and youthful with lots of fruit and ripe tannins, but an austere and fresh finish that gave the wines tension and focus.

"So which wine do you prefer tonight?" he said.

I had to go with the Bordeaux because it was so much more drinkable than the Italian reds at this stage in their evolution. And it went wonderfully with the grilled steaks. (By the way, the food at Sabatini is excellent and worth the trip across the bay to Kowloon -- hearty and flavorful style of Italian food.)

The Bordeaux was 1989 Chateau Clinet Pomerol. It really did show perfect balance and perfection for drinking.

The two Tuscan Merlots were from the same producer -- Tua Rita. They were the 1997 Redigaffi and 1999 Redigaffi. I have always championed the 1997, although one of the owners of Redigaffi, Stefano Frascolla, always preferred the 1999.

I would still rate the 1997 Redigaffi 100 points. It only gets better with time. It is more integrated now with the intense tannins, new wood and opulent fruit. And the tannins are finer and more polished than the 1999, which seems a little more chewy and phenolic than the 1997. I scored the 1999 97 points.

Granted, it's not completely an even playing field tasting a Pomerol against a Tuscan Merlot with about a decade difference in age. But I wasn't about to complain. They were all exceptional wines.

Here are my tasting notes:

1989 Chateau Clinet Pomerol: This wine has such balance and harmony. I remember when it was young and how the new wood and intense fruit came out, but they have finally come together in such a beautiful way. It shows subtle and complex character of plums, cedar, dried flowers, and earth. The texture or mouthfeel is beautiful as you taste it. 100 points

1997 Tua Rita Toscana Redigaffi:  This is rich and dense with beautiful dark fruits, black olives and hints of chocolate. The once almost coconut and vanilla character from new barrels has finally dissolved into the wine. It full and round textured with soft tannins. Everything is wonderfully integrated now. Impressive and youthful still. So much more to give. But so delicious and sexy now. 100 points

1999 Tua Rita Toscana Redigaffi: This is chewy and fruity with mineral and floral character. It's full-bodied, with dark fruits, minerals and fresh tobacco; almost mushroom undertones. This is still just a baby. 97 points